A convenient, practical and comfortable shed made of blocks or timber is an indispensable object on suburban area. Here you can place garden and construction tools, put small equipment, settle pets and birds, create a cozy workshop, equip a woodshed, store building materials and feed. For a farm building, one of important features- this is stability and durability, so special attention should be paid to the foundation. Properly made, this structural element will ensure the reliability of the building and extend its service life.

The construction of a barn with a solid foundation is an indispensable object in a summer cottage Source penzainform.ru

Soil types

The foundation for the barn is chosen based on the characteristics of the soil, material capabilities and personal preferences. If there is still a choice on the second and third points, then some types of foundations are categorically not suitable for certain soils. Therefore, first of all, you need to look at what soil the building will be built on. Basically, soils are divided into peat, rocky, sandy, coarse and clay.

The depth of the foundation for the barn depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of soil freezing. The specific features of the area, its characteristics and topography, as well as the properties of the land plot can be obtained after conducting a geological study of the area.

Variety of barns

Depending on the period of use of the barn, construction of capital or temporary facilities is practiced in summer cottages.

A permanent barn is designed for heavy use over many years and requires the construction of a solid, reliable foundation. For the construction of a capital barn, it is best to choose materials whose installation is very simple. Most often, foam blocks, timber or board, brick, stone, metal or plastic are used for these purposes.

Temporary buildings are most often installed for a short period of use and are assembled from any improvised materials.

You can make a temporary shed from improvised materials left over from the construction site Source buscarfoto.com

Preparation of concrete solution

When building foundations for a barn and other light buildings, use concrete mortar, one of the components of which is high-quality Portland cement M400. Concrete mortar has a wide range of applications and has excellent characteristics:

Fine tolerates temperature changes;

Great resists aggressive environment and moisture;

has high scores frost resistance;

provides high strength the buildings.

To prepare a concrete solution you will need:

rubble different factions;

water without impurities;

clean sand without additives.

If it is planned to build a small barn, then it will be more profitable to use a concrete mixer Source fradeunix.com

When preparing the solution, adhere to certain proportions of sand, crushed stone and cement. Their ratio is 3:5:1. The required amount of water is gradually added to the dry mixture of these components, achieving a homogeneous mass of a creamy consistency, without lumps and air bubbles.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

barn without foundation

In summer cottages and country houses, it is often practiced to build a barn without forming a foundation. This option is suitable when installing a temporary building or a metal container. In this case, the container is installed on pre-prepared sleepers or timber, sprinkled around the entire perimeter with a layer of crushed stone.

A household container can be used as a temporary shed. Source kazkont.net

Often frame structures are also installed without a foundation. However, in regions with cold winters and deep freezing of the soil, after a few years of use, it is easy to get an ugly, skewed object in a summer cottage.

What is the best foundation for a barn

To select the optimal foundation option for the construction of light sheds and other similar buildings, it will be necessary to solve two fundamental questions:

composition and characteristics of the soil;

features of the building and its weight.

Practice building one of the following foundations:

In the construction of sheds from heavy materials is indispensable strip foundation .

Ideal for frame structures columnar base.

On difficult soils, it is worth giving preference piles.

Ideal for swampy and loose soils slab foundation.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer small form design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Online foundation calculator

To find out the approximate cost of foundations various types use the following calculator:

Monolithic foundation for a barn

A monolithic strip foundation for a utility block is most often used for the construction of sheds intended for keeping animals. It is an excellent option for the construction of buildings on clay soils and loams.

Monolithic foundation is equipped for capital buildings, which are planned to be used for many years Source metasold.com

The technology of erecting a monolithic or strip foundation itself is quite simple, but the work is hard and dirty. Stages of work here are the following:

Run markup territory.

All over designated area dig a hole, deepening 50 cm deep.

Design sand cushion about 20 cm high, while each layer of sand is moistened with water and compacted. The sand cushion acts as a reliable foundation for the slabs.

Lay with a slight slope drainage pipes.

Collect formwork, reinforce it with reinforcing mesh or metal rods fastened at the intersections with wire

Foundation pouring. Fresh concrete is compacted with special vibrators - submersible and surface.

Time drying out monolithic foundation is 1-1.5 months. During this period, it is covered with a film and periodically moistened with water. This procedure will prevent the formation of cracks on its surface.

Formwork removed and installed waterproofing layer from roll materials.

Video description

A detailed technology for the construction of a concrete foundation can be viewed in the following video:

Tape shallow foundation

An excellent solution for building a barn from heavy materials: brick, stone or foam blocks on sandy, rocky, clay soils is a strip foundation.

Wooden shed on a strip foundation Source liderhomes.ru

To build a strip foundation for a barn, it is necessary to dig a trench to a depth of 50 cm. The width is calculated based on the thickness of the future walls and leaving about 30 cm of margin. At the bottom of the trench, a sand cushion about 15 cm high is formed. The sand is thoroughly moistened with water and compacted. Next, install a removable or fixed formwork from any improvised material to a height of about 30 cm above ground level. Reinforcing mesh or rods are laid inside.

Depending on the size of the foundation, it is best to use a concrete mixer to prepare concrete or immediately order the right amount at the factory - the concrete will “arrive” in the mixer and can immediately be poured into the formwork. In any case, it is best to fill the entire volume in one go. This will ensure the integrity of the foundation and avoid the appearance of cracks during operation.

Concrete is poured, leveled around the entire perimeter and rammed a little, trying to get rid of the accumulated air. The finished concrete is covered around the entire perimeter with a film and left in this form until the solution has completely dried. Periodically, the concrete surface is moistened with water. This contributes to uniform drying and saves the surface from numerous cracks.

Strip foundation in section Source ar.aviarydecor.com

After the concrete has dried, the removable formwork is removed, a waterproofing layer is installed and the walls are erected.

Pile-grillage foundations for sheds

The pile foundation for the utility block is a real find on difficult soils. Its construction is especially important for deeply freezing soils, the construction of a strip foundation on which is not economically feasible.

erection pile foundation can be held at any time of the year, regardless of weather conditions. After installing the piles, you can immediately proceed to the next stages of work.

Arrangement of a pile-screw foundation Source remembar.me

The preliminary stage is the leveling of the territory and the marking of the site.

When building sheds often used:

bored;

stuffed;

screw piles.

The simplest and fastest technology is the construction of screw piles. At the corners of the future barn, as well as at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from each other, with the help of a shovel, small recesses are formed with a depth of 30-40 cm. metal rod or scrap. Piles are installed at least 10-15 cm below the freezing point.

After installing the piles, their above-ground part is leveled with a grinder, poured with concrete and the head is welded. That's all. You can start forming a monolithic or prefabricated grillage made of wood, metal or reinforced concrete.

It looks like a cap for a pile foundation Source rodogerb.ru

Pillar foundation for a shed

A column foundation is much cheaper than an expensive strip foundation and consists in installing strong pillars at the corners of the barn. Blocks for the foundation for the hozblok are made of brick, stone, pipes or reinforced concrete and other materials. However, silicate and ceramic bricks with low frost resistance and high water absorption should not be used.

Often, oak or pine poles soaked in used oil or tar are used as supports.

A column foundation is a good option for building light structures on non-rocky, slightly heaving and rocky soils, but is not suitable for moving soils. Also, it cannot be used for heavy structures.

The device of a sand cushion under the columnar foundation Source remontik.org

After marking at the corners of the structure, it is necessary to dig holes and form a dense sand cushion. Installation of supports is carried out using a concrete solution and a waterproofing layer is performed.

Conclusion

Reliable - the key to a long service life of the structure. The choice of the most suitable option, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the specifics of the area, will fully solve this problem.

In order for the shed to “not lie on the ground”, it is necessary good foundation. It will allow you to raise the building and provide external ventilation in the lower part of the building. In addition, small additional rooms can be located inside the foundation, which can always be used.

Since the shed and most outbuildings are light weight buildings, a shallow foundation is enough, which can be formed quite quickly and by spending very little money. Although in some cases more effort is required to create a foundation due to the high viscosity of the soil (you will have to penetrate deeper into the ground to ensure the stability of the future barn, to prevent it from slipping).

Different types of foundations have their pros and cons. All of them are quite simple if you follow the recommendations of professionals.

Approximately the same popularity marked:

• tape;
• screw (pile);
• column foundation.

And yet, where do you stop? There are two main determinants to consider:

• soil features;
• the expected massiveness of the outbuilding (barn).

If the soil is sufficiently stable, band and column structures are ideal. They don't require great depth. On more viscous ground, screw piles will have to be used and installed to a depth of about 1.5 meters.

Step one. We mark the territory with wooden stakes, stretch the twine or rope to mark straight lines. The marks should run along a line coinciding with the outer and inner walls of the future foundation (the trench will be wider than these lines).

Please note that large outbuildings require a sectional layout. That is, the foundation pouring will take place not only along the edges of the structure, but also under it - this is necessary so that the “bottom” of the barn does not sag, but lies on concrete.

Step two. Now it's time to dig a trench. It is easy to get by with a shovel and physical labor, without the involvement of excavator equipment. The width of the trench channel is recommended ~ 45-70 cm with a net width of the foundation (without formwork) ~ 30-40 cm, respectively.

As for the depth, make it a little lower than the freezing point. This nuance is useful to determine in advance. And if you started construction unexpectedly for yourself, ask around your neighbors or relatives. Surely among your friends there are those who have already built foundations in this area and will tell you.

Step three. At the bottom of the trench, pour crushed stone with a layer of 8-10 cm, then sand with a layer of about 4-5 cm. humidity levels, from minimal seismic impulses.

Step four. Wooden formwork is constructed from boards and plywood. It makes no sense to install a barn on a foundation, the upper edge of which coincides with the ground level. After all, you also need to protect the lower part of the barn from decay. In addition, the relief on the site is not always even - the difference can be “distributed” due to the correct deepening of the strip foundation in such a way that at the highest point of the earth the concrete looks out at least 20 cm (or better even all 30 cm).

Step five. Reinforcing elements are laid inside the formwork - metal mesh, rod, etc. Between themselves, the elements are connected by wire, but without welding. At the same stage, do not forget about ventilation. Without it, excess moisture is formed inside the foundation, which will inevitably lead to the destruction of not only concrete, but also the barn.

Air vents (air vents) are made from scraps of plastic or metal pipes, and may also have a square section. The main thing is that the holes are placed in several places and create a broach of air.

Step six. Prepare concrete mortar in quantities sufficient for full consumption - nothing should remain in the concrete mixer "for tomorrow". Pour the mixture into the formwork evenly through the piping, using a shovel to manually help the concrete spread in an even layer.

It is recommended to first make a thin layer, let it harden a little, and only then pour the foundation to the top. So you will be able to avoid the loss of water and cement milk. That is, the lowest layer will be a kind of insulation from the sand and gravel cushion.

The term for the complete hardening of the concrete foundation is 24-27 days, but the construction of the barn can begin in one and a half to two weeks, when ~ 70% of the strength has already been achieved.

Find out the nature of the soil in your area. If it is unreliable, contains a lot of water, has a high viscosity - you need piles. These are special parts that are sold in hardware stores. There are driven ones and with screw threads along the barrel. Piles are driven (screwed) into the ground to a depth specified in the instructions when buying. The main task at the same time is to maintain verticality. Use the construction level, plumb lines and any other methods in your work.

Video - Foundation on screw piles

As life has shown, a columnar foundation gives the widest possible range for an amateur experiment. In principle, it is allowed to use any material, but usually at the disposal of rural residents or summer residents all kinds of building “jewels” always accumulate:

• a couple of pallets of bricks inherited from the previous owner;
• randomly mined concrete blocks languishing in anticipation of a successful application;
• cuttings of asbestos pipes and other suitable materials.

Operating procedure

Step one. We determine the placement points of the pillars. 1 pc. they must be under each corner element. Plus on the runs between the corners, if the length of such a run is more than 1.8-2 meters.

Video - Column Foundation

Step two.

• square pits - if we have square (cubic) elements at our disposal;
• rectangular - with a small depth of the planned occurrence of the foundation and if our elements have the shape of a parallelepiped;
• vertical wells - if we use brick columns or asbestos (or other) pipes.

Step three. The bottom is covered with a shock-absorbing layer. As a rule, it is 4-6 cm of sand. Sometimes gravel, sometimes a combination of both. The interlayer is needed so that the bearing element does not “merge” with the ground, but exists, as it were, independently. And during periods of increased humidity, such a foundation will not “blur” in different directions.

Step four. We place the pillars in the finished holes. When working with pipes, keep in mind that they should not remain hollow inside. Even if it is iron, it will begin to rust over time, and the emptiness inside the columns that support your barn will not lead to anything good.

Asbestos walls are also quite fragile by definition - it is hardly far-sighted to rely on their durability if there is a void inside. Mix a concrete mixture that will include sand and some pebbles and/or crushed stone. Do not forget to put reinforcing elements in the pipe barrel. Pour the mortar into the pipes after they are installed and leveled vertically.

Step five. The column method does not require a long wait until the concrete hardens (as is the case with tape pouring). At most, when laying brick or block pillars by hand, it makes sense to wait 3-5 days until the concrete in the connecting seams has a good grip and completely hardens. After that, it is already possible to safely begin the construction of a barn or an outbuilding directly.

In practice, any private trader involved in construction is easily carried away in the process. His appetites grow, there is a desire to redraw the layout, increase the size of the foundation and the entire barn. Experts recommend being consistent. Calculate all sizes in advance, prepare recesses, determine the number of pillars.

Otherwise, unexpected surprises are possible. For example, non-digging rubble nodes in the ground, meeting with conductive underground utilities unknown to you, and so on. Planning and a reasonable approach will lead you to undeniable success.

Building a barn with your own hands is not such a difficult task, but without such a building on personal plot you can’t do it, especially if the site is new, and the construction of the house is still planned. During this time, the shed will become a shelter for the craftsmen, a storage for their tools, and later it will be a workshop or a good warehouse for firewood and garden utensils. Therefore, it is necessary to start equipping a fenced area with the installation of this economic structure.

Location selection

You can’t install a barn where you have to - first you need to carry out zoning, since you need to remember that the building will serve for more than one year and can become an obstacle to other buildings, or spoil the planned landscape design of the territory. Therefore, it is necessary to allocate a place for it that will not be suitable for agricultural or decorative plantings, a gazebo, a garage, a bathhouse, a toilet and other buildings. If you install a barn in the far corner of the site, it will not only not interfere with the work process, but will also become protection from prying eyes.

But if in the future it is planned to arrange a woodcutter in it, then the shed should not be too far from the main building, since in winter it will be difficult to get to it, and firewood should always be at hand.

After choosing a suitable area for installation, you can proceed to further steps.

Site preparation

The first thing to do after choosing a place is to mark the site. It is usually marked with pegs placed at the corners of the future structure. A twine is pulled over the pegs - it will be easier to control the level of the foundation being built.

The foundation for a barn can be made in many ways, and the choice will depend on what material the structure will be built from. Most often, a barn is built according to the frame type, but some owners prefer to build such an outbuilding from bricks.

The frame structure is much lighter than a brick one, so you can choose a monolithic, columnar or strip foundation for it, or you can install it on relatively large concrete blocks.

A tape and monolithic version of the foundation is well suited for a brick structure. You can, of course, adapt the columnar one to it, by making jumpers between the pillars, but this is quite troublesome. To choose suitable foundation for the intended structure, you need to know what they are.

Although the most expensive and time-consuming to install, but it has several advantages over other types of foundations.

• It is durable and strong, so even when wooden structure will become unusable, on the old foundation it will be possible to build a new one.
• Having arranged such a foundation, the owner receives not only the basis for the walls, but also the finished barn floor.
• If concrete is reinforced with topping, then the floor will not require additional flooring. But if you wish, you can put linoleum or tiles on it, i.e. the concrete base gives the full right to choose its decoration.

The construction of such a foundation is as follows:

• On the marked area, a not too deep pit is dug, since the barn is an easy non-residential premises, does not require insulation basics. Therefore, its total thickness can be 300 ÷ 350 mm, i.e. its underground part will be 200 ÷ -250 mm, and the above-ground 100 ÷ 150. Even if the walls are built of brick, half a brick thick (and more is usually not required for a barn), such a base height will be quite enough for it.
• On the prepared site, it is necessary to loosen and remove the soil to a depth of 400 ÷ 550 mm.
• Then, at the bottom of the pit, you need to arrange a 100 mm sand cushion, which will waterproof foundation sn izu. Sand must be carefully compacted by pouring water.
• Gravel is laid on the sand in the same layer. She, too, is rammed to the maximum. Crushed stone will make the base more durable and will not allow it to sag.
• A formwork is installed around the pit, with a height of 100 ÷ 150 mm above the soil level.
• Next, a rough concrete mortar is kneaded, which is laid on the rubble with a layer 7-10 cm thick and evenly distributed throughout the pit - this will be a rough screed.
• Then the reinforcing mesh with cells 60 ÷ 100 mm is immediately laid. It can be fixed with wire staples by sticking them in several places into the rough screed.
• If the floor area of ​​the barn is large enough, then after the rough screed has set, you need to set it flush with the height of the beacon formwork. They will be necessary for the convenience of leveling the surface.
• Further, a thinner cement-sand mortar is poured, made in proportions of 1: 3, and leveled by the rule along the guides of the beacons.
• The structure must be given several hours to set, and then covered with plastic wrap on top for uniform hardening.
• If it is planned to strengthen the surface with topping, then this process is carried out on a freshly set, but still wet surface.

Strip foundation

It will require less cost, but having arranged it, you will still have to make a floor from boards, plywood, or also fill in a screed, but thinner, since this type of foundation is intended only for the base wall structures. It can be done as brick walls, and under frame wooden.

• For a strip foundation, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the marked area, about 100 ÷ 120 mm wide more than the thickness of the future walls. The depth of the trench, as well as that of a monolithic foundation, should be 400 ÷ 550 mm.
• Laying a sand cushion and strengthening with crushed stone is also carried out in the same way as when constructing a monolith.
• Further, the trench is enclosed from the outside and inside with formwork, which should be 200 ÷ 350 mm high.
• A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the crushed stone layer, it is desirable that it be 50 ÷ 70 mm high below the upper edge of the formwork.
• Next, the concrete mixture is poured into and tapped with a bayonet shovel to remove air, which can form cavities inside the concrete, which will weaken the structure.
• The top of the poured foundation is leveled along the upper edge of the formwork, and the structure is left to harden.
• When the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed from the base.
• Inside the foundation, it is best to fill in expanded clay of a fine fraction, it will insulate and waterproof the floor, and will also prevent rodents from starting, since they simply do not live in it.

Column Foundation

Used for the construction of a frame structure. Install it like this:

• The area allocated for the barn is marked out specifically for column foundation, since the supports must stand at a certain distance from each other, usually it is from one to one and a half meters.
• According to the marking, the required number of holes is dug with a depth of 350 ÷ 450 mm, a width on top approximately 400 × 400 mm.
• At the bottom of the dug pits, a layer of 100 mm of sand and the same amount of crushed stone are poured. Each of the layers is well compacted.
• The next step is the flooring waterproofing made of polyethylene film, it must line the pit and exit to the surface, to the top future columns, plus 70 ÷ 100 mm.

• A formwork is installed in each pit - a box without a bottom. Inside it, a waterproofing film is straightened and fixed with staples along its top. The barn structure will be raised from the ground to the height of the box.
• A reinforcing welded or wire-bonded structure is installed in each formwork box.
• After that, the concrete solution is poured. From above, along the formwork, it is leveled and left to harden.
• While the columns are solidifying, if desired, you can carry out the following work, which will reduce the ingress of moisture into the barn. To do this, 50 ÷ 70 mm of the fertile layer is removed throughout the site, around the posts, and sand is poured and compacted in its place, and fine gravel is poured on top of it.
• After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed from the posts, and then it would be desirable to cover them with a waterproofing material, for example, bituminous mastic or liquid rubber.

Prices for bituminous mastic

Bituminous mastic

Video: barn on a columnar foundation

concrete block foundation

This one is only suitable for frame construction, and its installation is the easiest of all the above.

• First, the marked area is cleared, the fertile soil layer is removed from it by 50 ÷ 70 mm.
• Instead of the extracted soil, a layer of sand is poured, watered and compacted.
• Fitted on top of it layer of fine gravel also needs to be compacted.
• Further, concrete blocks of the required height are laid on the prepared site around the perimeter. The distance between them should be no more than one and a half meters. Blocks must be aligned with a level.

After the foundation of any type is ready, it is necessary to lay waterproofing from roofing material in 2-3 layers on its surface.

Video: building a barn on a concrete block base

Framing, roofing and wall cladding installation

Since the most common the way to build a barn is a frame structure, it is worth considering it. This design is popular because its installation is carried out quickly and quite simply. The main thing is to keep under constant control the evenness of the installed and stacked bars. Properly assembled and processed structure will reliably serve 10 ÷ 15 years. The work is carried out in stages.

• The support beams are fastened together at the corners using metal corners. Next, they need to be fixed to the foundation with a through fastening or a metal corner.

• The construction of the wall frame can be carried out in two ways:

- each of the walls, taking into account windows and doors, is assembled in a horizontal position and installed vertically in finished form. But in this case, one cannot do without assistants;

- in the second option, each of the bars is installed separately according to a previously developed drawing, and then they are fastened together at the installation site. This method of connecting frame elements is much more complicated.

• The whole structure must be rigidtherefore, if necessary, perpendicular jumpers are installed in the frames of the walls, floor and ceiling.

• All parts are interconnected with a quarter or half-tree selection, fastened with special metal corners.

It must be remembered that the front wall of the shed must be 200 ÷ 300 mm higher than the back, so that the roof has a slope.

• After erecting the frame of the walls and connecting them together, the roof lathing is arranged.
• The battens of the battens are fixed at a certain distance - it will depend on what material is chosen for the roof. For example, plywood sheets will have to be laid under a soft roof or tiles. But, basically, corrugated board, metal tiles or slate are used to cover outbuildings. The sheets of these materials are wide enough, so they are attached directly to the roof sheathing. In this case, the step of laying parallel bars in a horizontal orientation (perpendicular to the direction of the slope) should be about 500 — 600 mm.

• When the frame structure is covered with a roof, you can proceed to sheathing the floor and walls. Floorboards (if a wooden floor is planned) are laid on logs and fastened to them with self-tapping screws.
• Walls can be sheathed in two ways: only outside or both outside and inside.

1. If you want the building to look neat and fit well into the landscape design, it is sheathed on top with modern vinyl clapboard. Inside, plywood is used for sheathing.

Prices for lining, timber imitation, block house

Clapboard, timber imitation, block house

If the shed will serve as a workshop in which it is planned to work until the very cold weather, the walls of the building can be additionally insulated with mineral wool. To do this, insulation mats are placed in the frame of the wall lathing between the lining and plywood.

2. If it was not planned to sheathe the barn from the inside, then from the outside it can be decorated with denser plywood or thick enough boards with grooves so that there are no gaps in the sheathing. However, the sheathing with a board with an overlap of the upper elements on the lower ones (like shingles) also looks quite original.

Shed, sheathed with boards according to the principle of "shingles"

• When the building is sheathed, window frames are installed in it, if windows are provided, a door frame and the door itself.
• If the shed was installed on a columnar foundation or concrete slabs, the lower through part of the structure (subfloor) must also be sheathed. Sheathing is fixed to poles or concrete slabs. As a sheathing, flat slate, ordinary boards or vinyl lining can be used.
• A gutter is fixed on the back of the roof to drain rainwater, otherwise water may leak under the barn, and this is undesirable for any building.
• Then you need to view the entire room from the inside, if gaps are found somewhere, they are sealed with mounting foam.
• If the barn is raised on a high foundation, then it is necessary to make a ladder of several steps. It can be made of wood or brick and then plastered with cement mortar.

Video: building a wooden shed on a solid foundation

There are many different options barn buildings, and they use different materials. But if the building is being built for more than one year, and you want it to serve for a long time, you need to choose high-quality materials for work, as well as carefully approach each stage of the process.

5 types of timber for construction

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Beam solid profiled	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Beam glued profiled	⭐ 98 / 100
#4		Beam glued unprofiled	⭐ 97 / 100
#5		Thermobeam	⭐ 96 / 100

This type of timber has the simplest manufacturing technology. To obtain it, four sides of the edge are cut off from the log. The most common section of such a bar is 150x150 mm or 150x200 mm. The production of solid timber does not require sophisticated woodworking equipment, therefore, in terms of the number of offers on the market, this timber occupies a leading position.

• availability. Since the process of manufacturing a solid bar is not complicated, it can be purchased almost everywhere, with a minimum waiting time from order to delivery of products;
• the low cost of this material is due to the simplicity of its manufacture and the lack of costs for drying wood;
• environmental friendliness. This beam is able to regulate the level of humidity in the house, absorbing excess moisture that accumulates in the premises during human life.

• the complexity of laying the log house;
• increase in construction time;
• cracking of unprofiled timber;
• significant costs for finishing and thermal insulation work;
• susceptibility to fungus.

Beam solid profiled

Profiled timber can be sold dry or in natural moisture. It is best to use dry profiled timber for building a house, as it is less prone to shrinkage and deformation. Many companies manufacture ready-made house sets from profiled timber, which allows construction to be carried out in a very short time.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a barn is built in several ways. If you want this outbuilding to serve you for many years, you should treat the issue of building a foundation for it responsibly.

In private courtyards, there are often many outbuildings designed for various purposes. The most common of these is the barn. Usually it is a multifunctional structure that can be used to store a variety of working tools and household equipment, breeding domestic animals. Some owners equip a workshop in the barn.

Regardless of the specific purpose for which the described economic structure is used, it needs a qualitative foundation.

High-quality foundation of an economic structure

Of course, you can build a barn without a foundation. But such a structure will not last long. The guarantee of long-term operation of any outbuilding will be durable and solid foundation for her. It can be:

• tape;
• screw;
• columnar.

Any of these foundations for an outbuilding is made as simple and economical as possible. As a rule, the foundations for a barn or utility block go deep into the ground by no more than 0.6 m. They are built according to simplified construction methods. Therefore, such structures cannot perceive truly serious loads. But in any case, buildings even on a very light foundation are much stronger and more durable than sheds built without a foundation. Always remember this.

The bases of the tape type are most popular among summer residents and owners of private dwellings. Such foundations are allowed to be built on any soil, they can withstand fairly large loads. True, the cost of their construction in comparison with other grounds for a utility block is either higher.

The base of the shed tape type

If you plan to spend a minimum of finance on construction activities, it is better to build not a tape, but a different type of foundation. Thankfully they have a large selection. For the rest, we will briefly describe how to properly build such a structure. You can make a strip foundation yourself, based on the following work algorithm:

1. You dig a ditch about 0.7 m wide. You determine its depth based on how much the earth freezes in winter. The bottom of the base for the outbuilding should be slightly below the freezing level of the soil.
2. Next, you need to make a two-layer pillow in the ditch - a 10-cm layer of rubble plus 5-8 cm of construction sand. Then this cake should be well compacted.
3. You are making . It is desirable to provide additional reinforcement of this structure. You need to make a simple mesh with cells measuring about 0.3x0.3 m from reinforcing bars of a small section (up to 1 cm). The formwork should protrude 0.25–0.3 m above the ground.
4. Prepare the concrete solution and pour it into the prepared structure. The formwork filling mixture, without which the strip foundation cannot be built, can be made according to the classic recipe. Mix crushed stone with sand in a ratio of 5 to 3, add cement (1 part). Then fill this composition with water and stir it until the composition becomes homogeneous and thick enough.

You just have to wait for a quality hardening concrete mix, dismantle the formwork structure and cover the gaps left after the removal of the timber frame with earth. The strip foundation is ready. Such a base is recommended for loaded buildings, for example, for a utility block or a full-fledged home workshop.

Much less labor and financial costs require the arrangement of a columnar structure. We note right away that it is impossible to build such a structure on moving soils. It is very easy to make a columnar foundation for a light utility block or similar building:

1. Clean up the shed area. On clay soils, it is required to additionally equip a gravel pillow on the ground (thickness - around 10 cm).
2. Mark the site by determining the mounting points of the columnar supports.
3. Dig holes in the marked places. The depth of the wells is taken in the range of 50–100 cm. The softer the soil on land plot, the stronger the supports should be deepened.
4. Pour a mixture of gravel and sand at the bottom of the pits (the total thickness of the layer should be about 15 cm), compact the cake made.
5. Install the posts in the wells prepared for them. You can make supports from bricks, asbestos-cement pipes or from concrete blocks. The choice is yours. Experts advise placing an additional reinforcing bar inside the pillars. Then their bearing potential increases significantly. Of course, if you are building a foundation for a very light shed, an additional rod is not needed.
6. You make a simple formwork, fill it with a concrete solution.

Arrangement of a columnar structure

After 5-7 days, the concrete will harden and you can build a barn on a prepared base.

Please note: if it was decided to make the pillars from bricks, the finished support must be treated with mastic with waterproof properties.

Relatively recently, outbuildings began to be installed on screw bases. Special supports that are used for these purposes have a special design with blades at the ends. Due to these elements, the screw rods are screwed into the ground without problems by two adult men. There are no real difficulties in performing such work.

Piles are screwed not by hand, but by means of a piece of an ordinary pipe or an iron crowbar, which are attached to the support through a special hole made in its upper part. Installation of screw products must be carried out strictly vertically. It is desirable that two people screw in the supports, and a third from the side observes the correct installation.

Installation of screw products

When a structure is erected on the site from foam blocks - a popular modern material for construction, the foundation for such a building is made according to the algorithm described for the strip base:

1. Dig a 0.6-meter deep trench. Fill its bottom with gravel and sand (it is optimal to use fine fraction materials) with a layer of 15–20 cm.
2. You make a reinforcing skeleton from rods with a section of 0.9–1 cm and a simple formwork from boards.
3. Pour concrete, wait for it to harden, mount light and durable foam blocks on the resulting base.

Choose the technology for building the foundation for the hozblok that suits you and do all the work yourself, saving the family budget!

Whatever the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house can not do without a barn on the site. Not everything can and should be brought into the house, even if there is a place, and even if there is not, then all the more so - outbuildings are necessary. This, by the way, may be the first experience in self-construction: you can build a barn with your own hands without skills. The main thing is that the hands grow from the right place.

What materials are they built from?

If the barn is located close to the house and you are concerned about its appearance, it makes sense to use the same material as when building the house. If you don’t want to spend a large amount on a household building, you can choose the finish so that you can’t tell from afar. In most cases, this is not very difficult: there are many technologies and many materials very accurately reproduce the appearance of expensive finishing materials. A striking example of this is . It is under a log, timber, brick, stone with different textures. So it is not necessary to use expensive materials to build a barn. It is more practical to use inexpensive construction technology, and then sheathe it with a material with a texture similar to the decoration of the main building.

How to quickly and cheaply build a barn

The fastest and at the same time inexpensive option for building a barn is by. The frame can be wooden or, it is sheathed on the outside with a finish, a roof is put on and that's it, the barn is ready. If the barn is planned to be wooden, it is assembled from timber and boards. A metal barn can be more conveniently made from a profiled pipe: a square section and welding and joining are much easier. There is also a special metal frame. It is assembled on self-tapping screws, and the entire structure is ordered and manufactured at the factory. Such houses are considered the cheapest, barns are unlikely to be expensive. The assembly of both a metal and a wooden shed takes several days: it has been checked more than once.

The frame building is light, so the foundation for the barn needs to be lightweight. In most cases, columns, concrete blocks are sufficient, sometimes screw piles are installed or bored piles are made. On more difficult soils and for those who love reliability, you can build a monolithic or prefabricated () shallow strip foundation.

Another option. It is suitable for soils from which water drains well, and subsoil waters are located deep. Then they mark out a plot that is 50 cm larger than the planned barn in each direction, remove the sod and make sand and gravel bedding. A strapping beam is laid on the compacted rubble and floor logs are attached to them (treated with an anti-separator for direct contact of the wood with the ground). That's all. No complications.

This is far from the best option: even with a low level of groundwater and careful processing of wood, the barn will not last long. If that suits you, then you can do that.

Foundation for a frame shed

All types of pile or columnar foundations involve the location of single supports along the perimeter: always at the corners of the building and at the junction of lintels (partitions), if any. The installation step of the supports depends on the size of the shed and on which logs you plan to use. The larger the span, the larger the cross section required.

For example, for a barn width of 2 meters, you can put only two rows of posts and the logs will be 150 * 50 mm (in extreme cases, 150 * 40 mm). If the width of the barn is 3 meters, then either put intermediate supports (posts, piles), or take a board 150 * 70 mm. Calculate what will be cheaper in your region, and choose.

With a board width of 100 mm, the floor sags noticeably underfoot. So you have to make a lag installation step of about 30 cm. Then there is no deflection at all, or it is insignificant (it depends on the weight).

The fastest way to make a foundation is on ready-made blocks: you can buy them or make them yourself. Under them, pits are dug a little larger than the blocks. Sand is poured at the bottom, rammed, then gravel, it is also rammed. The thickness of the bedding in a compacted form is 20-30 cm. Blocks are installed on it, and the lower harness is already mounted on the blocks.

If we are talking about a shallow strip foundation, then the trench is dug 40-60 cm deep relative to the ground level, the width of the tape is about 25 cm, and the trench itself should be at least half a meter or more wider: the bottom is leveled and rammed into it. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom and rammed again.

A frame is knitted from a 12-14 mm rod. Four ribbed longitudinal rods are connected using frames made of a smooth rod 6-8 mm. The dimensions of the frames should be such that all reinforcement is at least 5 cm from the edges of the tape. For example, if the foundation is 40 * 25 cm, then the bars are tied into a structure with a rectangular section of 30 * 15 cm.

A connected frame is installed in the formwork, which is then poured at least M-200

Do-it-yourself wooden frame barn: step by step with a photo

A frame shed measuring 6 * 3 meters was built. The roof is shed, covered with ondulin. The height of the front wall is 3 meters, the rear wall is 2.4 m. Operation has shown that with such a difference in heights, snow does not accumulate much (Len. region).

Standard blocks FBS 600 * 300 * 200 were used as the foundation for the barn. They are laid on a sand and gravel bedding 25 cm thick. Cut-off waterproofing is laid on top of the blocks - a layer of roofing material, on bituminous mastic. A layer of “hydrotex” is still glued on top of the same mastic. Such a cake was made because the groundwater level is high, it was necessary to protect the building from dampness.

Start building a barn. Waterproofing is laid on the foundation, a strapping is laid on it, and a beam is attached to the strapping

A beam with a section of 150 * 150 mm was laid on the waterproofing (all lumber processed). It was connected in half a tree, beaten with nails - 100 * 4 mm. For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, you can join the bars end-to-end, nail reinforced corners to the joints from the inside, and a mounting plate from the outside.

In this embodiment, the frame was not attached to the blocks. In regions with high wind loads, this is unjustified. You can fasten it with the help of studs: through them, through the beam, into the block, a hole of the same diameter is drilled (12-14 mm). A pin is driven into it, the bolt is then tightened with a key. To hide the hat, you can drill a hole under it.

The next step is fixing the floor lag. Installed on the edge of the board 150 * 60 mm. They are attached to the harness with special brackets of the appropriate size. Fastened on nails 100 * 4 mm.

The logs were aligned along the upper edge of the strapping beam. Everything must be even, otherwise the floor will be hard to lay. You may have to level with a planer or redo it.

The frame was assembled using the "platform" technology: first, the floor was laid, and the walls were mounted on it. The wall frame or part of it is assembled on the floor. In some cases, they are immediately sheathed from the outside, if slab material is chosen for sheathing. And already in this form (with or without sheathing) they rise, stand vertically and are fixed.

There is a second technology "balloon". According to it, the frame is mounted gradually: corner posts of the frame are mounted on the strapping or even immediately on the blocks. They are level in all planes. A rope is pulled between them, along which the rest of the racks are then put up. They are also nailed one at a time, fastened together with slopes and temporary crossbars.

In this case, the "platform" technology was chosen and OSB 18 mm thick was laid on the logs. In general, the floor can be made from boards, plywood (moisture resistant), OSB, etc. The board will need 20, plywood - 13-15 mm, but moisture resistant is needed (OSB is moisture resistant by default).

Next, the assembly of the walls began. The frame is completely knocked down: the lower harness, racks, upper harness. In this form, it is installed exactly along the edge of the strapping beam, exposed, strengthened with safety struts, stops, and slopes. It is nailed through the flooring to the strapping beam. Nails were taken 200 * 4 mm.

To assemble the frame, boards 100 * 50 mm were used, the distance between the racks was 600 mm, the rafters were installed with the same pitch. The rafter system was assembled from 150 * 40 mm.

Window and door openings are reinforced - two boards are nailed, which are nailed together in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The load here is greater, therefore reinforcement is required. Gates are provided in one of the ends - for loading / unloading bulky items. Therefore, in this wall (shown in the photo) there are only corner posts and reinforced ones for fastening the wings.

Since the roof is shed, the rafter system is simple: they are laid on the edge of the boards that are selected for the rafters. Their length is greater, since a roof overhang is required. It is usually 30-50 cm on each side. In this embodiment, with a barn width of 3 meters, the length of the rafter legs (taking into account the slope) was 3840 mm.

They were nailed obliquely - two on each side. It can be strengthened by installing corners: this way it will withstand even significant wind and snow loads.

The walls outside were sewn up with OSB 9.5 mm thick.

Installed doors, made small steps.

The final touches were the wind board. Then the barn was sheathed with clapboard and painted to match the rest of the buildings on the site. A do-it-yourself barn on a finished foundation was built in two days off. Clapboard lining and painting were much later - almost a month later.

The final barn…beautiful

The unattractive foundation is sewn up with cut-to-size asbestos sheets. The shed turned out beautiful.

Barn with a gable roof made of metal

This barn was built alone. The building is also framed: the cheapest way. In this case, the assembly method - "balloon" - the gradual setting of the racks. It all starts the same way: first they made columns for the foundation. Only this time brick.

As you can see, studs are mounted in the corner posts. Holes are drilled in the strapping beam and it is put on studs. They can be made not only in the corners, but also on intermediate pillars too: it will hold on tighter.

This shed has a small porch, so a transverse beam is installed at the required distance. And it will be supported by a wall. Under it, columns are also pre-made.

Logs can also be attached with a notch. Then a notch is cut out in the strapping beam in the form of a log. In depth, it should not exceed 30% of the thickness of the beam, because the log is cut so that it stands flush with the strapping. This method is more labor intensive.

Next, the frame was assembled: corner posts 100 * 100 mm, intermediate - 50 * 100 mm, the upper trim and rafter system were assembled from the same board. The triangles at the top are reinforced with overhead metal plates. Smaller plates were also attached at the junction of the upper strapping bar and racks. They were joined end-to-end without cutting, nailed on top and obliquely. The plates have reduced the likelihood of folding under side loads.

The frame was sheathed with OSB sheets - the most convenient size for construction. Subsequently, the walls will be finished with wood siding.

Sheathing, by the way, does not have to be plywood or OSB. You can fasten the lining or board immediately and the racks. But then, when assembling the frame, you need to put slopes: without the rigidity of the plate material, the building will be flimsy. If mowing is not set, you can swing by hand.

After installing the braces, you can stuff a board, lining, block house, imitation of a bar - the choice is yours.

For those who care about the appearance of the building, a few ideas on how to make the barn beautiful in video format.

Video about the construction of wooden sheds

The barn turned out beautiful, but not cheap. But decent in size, strong and appearance does not differ from home - fits into the composition. Everything is shown / painted in detail, there is one violation: the waterproofing under the metal tile is laid vertically. Even with good gluing of the strips, sooner or later the water will make a path for itself. The rest is all right.

In this case, the do-it-yourself barn was built on the cheapest, probably, foundation: concrete was poured into the old tires. On these "pillars" the frame stands. Naturally, you need to put them on a flat, reliable surface and they themselves must be on the same level. In terms of strength, the tacon base will not yield to the best concrete blocks, and maybe even surpass them. The tires protruding from under the structure can be closed by making a step and subsequently placing flowers on it or using it for other needs. Even more practical.

Another video with a step-by-step illustration of the construction of a frame barn from a bar.

Dimensional drawings

A few drawings to help you navigate the dimensions of the building. Adjust as necessary to suit your site or needs.

Single Pitch Roof Shed - Rack Layout Drawing

Square barn - dimensions