Brick base for strip foundation. How a brick base is arranged on a strip foundation: types of blocks, as well as step-by-step instructions for building Laying a brick base on a foundation

20.11.2021

The basement occupies an intermediate position between the foundation and the walls. It must protect them from moisture and withstand the load of the entire structure, furniture and equipment installed in the building. Last year we made the necessary excavation laid the foundation for the future home. Now, in his free time, he lays out a brick plinth on the foundation.

Bricks for laying the second row

Vadik, owner of the future cottage, economist. He is interested in all ways to reduce costs. When buying a site and designing, he decided to test his professional knowledge in practice. Having heard that it is cheaper to do it yourself, I decided to master the specialty of a laborer and replace training in the gym with useful physical labor.

Brick plinth on a strip foundation

It is better to choose burnt brick. He has technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, for stability, much higher

On the strip foundation a support layer is made under the walls of different materials, from cast reinforced concrete to stone. Red brick for the base combines:

the required strength;
simplicity of brickwork;
low thermal conductivity;
budget cost.

With a little skill and patience, you can lay out the plinth with your own hands in a few days. To protect the walls from moisture, waterproofing is done during the construction of the basement. You can lubricate the surface of the foundation with heated bitumen in several layers. In time, this is a long time, since it is necessary to wait for the applied material to solidify and only then spread the next one on the surface.

It is better to use roofing material in 2 layers. The strips are cut along the width of the base, plus 4-5 centimeters. They are fastened with bituminous glue and fixed on the surface of the foundation. You can make the mixture with your own hands or use the finished one by buying it in the store. In heated bitumen, I added washed river sand. My friend mixed everything well.

Checking the dimensions and geometry of the foundation for the base

Bassoon plinth

Before starting work, I decided to check the strip foundation. Time has passed since it was filled. He could shrink, washed away by rainwater. The unevenness of the base plane will entail the distortion of the entire house and the constant repair of walls and ceilings. Measurements are taken using a ruler, tape measure and cord.

I measured the strip foundation with the help of a lath level along and across in several places. This is best done in the corners and every 2 meters of length. By placing a long device, it is easy to determine the presence of a slope. If you only have a corner level with short sides, put a plank underneath.
On the foundation in the corners he laid a dry brick along the outer edge. Then, with the help of Vadik, I checked the diagonal. For a regular rectangle, the size of the cord from corner to corner is the same. If the length is different, then the corners are not straight. For a brick basement of a residential building, a difference in the length of the diagonals of up to 2 centimeters is permissible.
Find the skew, and check the dimensions better with a tape measure. Measured at the corners. The foundation was poured without formwork. The outer walls are uneven. Brick simplifies measurements.

Having corrected the dimensions by shifting the corners, we checked the diagonals again with a cord. Then I marked the position of the brick base. Now, pulling the cord and fastening it to the pegs, he marked the outer side of the walls. It remains to lay out the plinth of bricks. I was sure of the correctness of the geometry of the frame of the house.

My friend smeared the strip foundation with glue from above with glue, laid layers of prepared roofing material, connected together with a bituminous mixture. The bottom waterproofing is ready. The walls will not get damp from moisture from the soil. Under the brick, on the waterproofing, I laid out a layer of cement mortar 2 cm thick. It will serve as a pillow and compensate for irregularities. For strength, I drowned a metal mesh with a 50 mm cell in it, cutting it slightly narrower in width than the base.

Brick laying pattern and plinth width

Brick plinth

We started preparing a ditch for the strip foundation after the completion of the house project. Then I imagined exactly what the width of the brick base should be, based on the calculated loads. The weight of a two-story brick building is large. If the masonry is narrow - 250 mm, then the brick for the basement may not withstand. Cracks will form on the walls. Repair and strengthening of the house will cost more than construction.

What width to make the foundation is determined by the laying of the basement. Standard sizes bricks 250x120x50 mm. Minimum size can be laid out, alternating rows with transverse laying in one row and longitudinal in two. Such a foundation is made for light houses made of wood, foam concrete, shell rock. Under walls made of wood and light material for cottages on 2 floors, laying one and a half bricks (380 mm) is suitable. Vadik plans 2 levels, a residential attic with insulation. It is better to use a wide masonry for a brick base in two rows (520 mm). House repairs will need to be done on this basis in 15 years.

Determining the size of the finished plinth in width is simple. To the dimensions of the brick is added 10 mm for each seam. I did row alternation:

two rows of bricks across the foundation;
outdoor and inner row along, the middle is filled with artificial stones laid transversely.

Such a plinth guaranteed stability for a multi-storey building made of heavy building material. Repair of the basement exterior finish may be required after a few years.

The choice of materials for the plinth of ceramic bricks

Silicate blocks can only be used in dry climates

When buying a brick, Vadik asked me which one to take and why. I advised him solid. With a temperature difference, especially in winter, condensation appears in the holes - dew. Moisture accumulates, is absorbed into the material and destroys the base. It will need renovation in a few years. A practicing economist, Vadik, was interested in a cheaper way to build a brick basement. I told him about the possibility of using used material. When dismantling buildings and demolishing partitions, if they do overhaul break down the walls. The brick is cleaned of the old mortar and tightly laid in the basement, choosing the less damaged one for the outer rows. In terms of strength, such a top foundation is inferior to that laid out from a new stone, with the correct geometry. Loads on it are made less. Do-it-yourself styling for a beginner is difficult. It is necessary to constantly check the level and select pieces of brick of the right size.

As a binder, I used cement mortar brand M-75. My friend did it in a concrete mixer. Loaded into it:

cement;
sand;
lime milk;
water was added after mixing.

The proportions depend on the brand of cement. For example: 0.8 liters of lime diluted in water to the state of milk is added to one bucket of Portland cement M500. Sand 7 buckets. Water is added for the first time in parts and its proportion in the mixture is determined. The solution should be kept on a trowel by a slide and not slide off an inclined plane.

Tip: Lime should not exceed 10% by volume in the dry mix. It is better to introduce it already slaked and dissolved in water - milk of lime. For builders without experience, working slowly, it is better to buy a ready-made mixture with plasticizers and additives that slow down the setting of the solution.

Ligation of bricks in the basement and waterproofing

Do-it-yourself brick masonry

On the waterproofing layer, my friend laid out a layer of concrete and pressed the mesh into it. Now I did the laying of the plinth. I need an assistant to prepare the solution. But Vadik wanted to try to do everything with his own hands. He asked me to choose a site simpler, on a flat line without corners. He carefully aligned the outer row along the stretched cord and then laid the rest of the brick tightly. After a couple of hours, I got used to doing everything myself. I fixed 2 boards at each corner close to the masonry. Now it remained to lay the brick, pressing against them. Carnations for the cord of the outer line were easily hammered into the tree. Such a device helps out when it is necessary to repair the corners and facade of the house.

Every 4 rows, now I, as an assistant, laid the mesh for strength. While the concrete mixer was running, I marked out openings for vents - holes for ventilation of the underground space of the house. I prepared the top layer of waterproofing, which was additionally laid under the masonry walls.

I advised Vadik to choose masonry with bandaging half the width of the brick. The outer layer alternated with transverse and longitudinal rows. Now when laying, the joints did not match. This made the base durable, and excluded repairs in the near future.

Protective and decorative finishing of the outer side of the plinth and blind area

Brick plinth masonry

Having finished laying the basement, we dug a ditch around the perimeter and poured a pillow under the blind area. Its width was determined by the size of the overhang of the roof, plus a strip for guaranteed rainwater runoff onto the concrete path. The slope from the building was 1.5 - 2 degrees. Otherwise, water will leak under the basement, destroy the foundation and have to make repairs, removing mold in the corner of the walls.

I made the final exterior finish with a decorative stone on a concrete mortar after the walls were erected.

The base is the bottom outer wall building, which is erected on the ground and plays the role of a barrier between the wall and the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena. A building without a basement is at risk from mold and rot and is less able to retain heat inside during the cold season. The main condition for a brick base on a strip foundation is high strength. Its structure must withstand the entire mass of the walls of the building. High-quality materials with a high level of resistance to frost, moisture and pressure strength will help to achieve the required indicator.

To date, there are three options for the basement, which are used in the construction of residential premises:

Exit plinth. From the name you can understand that such a coating goes beyond the outer walls of the house. This kind of basement will be used if they want to achieve additional heat resistance during frosts, or if this is required by the style of the building itself, because from an aesthetic point of view this option is more attractive. So that water does not linger on the surface of the base, it is usually equipped with grooves or a drainage system.
The plinth end-to-end with the outer walls has recently been used extremely rarely. This fact is due, first of all, to the absence of any useful properties in this type of base.
The recessed base will be used in the construction of residential buildings. Erected 6 cm deeper than the plane of the outer walls, this type of plinth can save money on the organization of water runoff, and also ensure the safety of the waterproofing layer.

What should be the width of the plinth

The dimensions of the basement directly depend on the material from which the walls of the building will be built. Such information is always contained in the general plan and on the project drawing. With walls made of foam block (which is sometimes also called gas silicate brick) with a long surface of 60 cm, a width of 30 cm and a height of 20 cm, the masonry must have a thickness of at least 30 cm.

If further construction involves the equipment of an additional insulating layer on top of the walls, then the width of the plinth should ideally be 38 cm. However, in the case when the brick is used as a decorative element built on top of the walls of foam concrete blocks, the thickness of the plinth increases by another 22 cm, after which it will be at least 60 cm.

Determining the height

Until now, the masters of the construction business do not have an unambiguous answer to the question of what should be the height of the basement. As the level at which the upper point of the masonry should be, it is best to take the height of the precipitation that has fallen over the past few years. This masonry technology is the most reliable and guarantees a long service life for a future building erected on a brick strip foundation.

But in practice, the most common basement masonry with a height equal to the floor of the first floor in the building. This technique also applies to buildings with a basement. Fashion and style trends in our time imply the presence of a high and massive plinth in the house, which are able to highlight the living space, giving it elegance and elegance.

Insulated brick base on a strip foundation

We remind you that all work on the organization of the basement is carried out on the erected tape base.

We outline the corners

One of the most important rules in the construction of not only the base, but any building in general, can be considered the correct definition of the corners of the structure. Negligence in this matter will certainly lead to a curvature of the surface of the walls, which will eventually lead to their partial or even full bearing capacity.

Several technologies are used to correctly set the corners, but the following technique is considered the simplest:

At all corners of the base of the building, a row of bricks is laid out without the use of cement mortar. In this case, the planned width of the future structure must be observed. The corners are inserted using the building level.
Next, measure the length and width on both sides, as well as the diagonals. All readings must match to the nearest centimeter. Measurements are carried out using a tape measure or twine.
It does not hurt to check the future walls again for irregularities. To do this, use the same twine.

Base surface waterproofing

In order to ensure reliable protection of the basement masonry from groundwater, care should be taken to organize the upper part of the foundation with an insulating layer, the functions of which can be performed by roofing material folded in half. It is glued to the surface of the base using bituminous mastic, a burner or heated bitumen. Also, glass isol, euroroofing material or an improved type of roofing material, which is based on cardboard - rubemast, is used as a waterproofing layer.

Bricklaying

Having provided the surface of the foundation with a waterproofing layer, you can start laying a brick basement. For fastening the bars, a solution of cement, sand and water is used. When building a basement, only red brick is used without holes and cavities.

They start laying out the base from the corners, placing the rows opposite each other, and covering the surface of the material with a solution 2-2.5 cm thick. After laying out several rows, the surface is checked with a level.

Having reached the minimum height of the base, which is 4 rows of standard bricks, you can begin to build walls. Trim the surface of the basement with decorative stone or siding. It is not uncommon to resort to decorating the basement with finishing tiles. With the help of a basement coating, the strip foundation is leveled with a brick.

If there is a basement floor in the room, holes in the basement for ventilation should be provided. They are located at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil. Dimensions depend on the diameter of the vent pipe. From above, the plinth is covered with a waterproofing layer, the same as the surface of the foundation was covered earlier.

Video about laying bricks on a strip base:

Plinth - the lower part of the outer wall of the house, built on the foundation and designed to save the walls from the damaging effects of moisture. A house without a plinth is at risk of mold and rot, may lose its ability to resist cold and increase heat transfer between the interior and the street.

One of the indisputable conditions is the strength of the basement, because the entire weight of the walls of the house rests on it. That is why the materials used must be of high quality, characterized by frost resistance, low moisture resistance and pressure resistance.

There are three basement options used in construction:

Outgoing - goes beyond the wall. This option is justified in two cases - it is part of the design of the building (aesthetically it is more advantageous) or there is a need for enhanced insulation of the basement. Be sure to be equipped with a slope or groove for water drainage.
Exit plinth sample
Standing end-to-end with a wall is an unpopular option today due to the lack of useful qualities.
Recessed by 6 cm into the wall of the house - the most optimal when building a house. It has a number of advantages: savings in construction, the security of the basement and wall joint, which ensures the safety of the waterproofing layer, the absence of an indispensable condition for ensuring water discharge.
Recessed plinth sample

Plinth width

To select the overall width of the plinth, it is worth referring to the drawing of the building project to determine the material that will be used to build the walls. For example, for gas silicate bricks (commonly known as foam concrete) with a side size of 600 X 300 X 200, the thickness of the masonry should be 30 cm, and if additional wall insulation is planned in the future, then a width of 38 cm is what you need. But when using brick as a decorative element on top of foam concrete blocks, the thickness increases to 60 cm.

Plinth height

The question of where the base ends is still controversial. The most reliable option is considered to determine the height based on the maximum amount of snowfall over several decades. The plinth, calculated using this simple technique, will protect the walls from the effects of capillary moisture, thereby increasing the reliability and durability of the built house.

But basically, the height corresponds to the level at which the floor of the first floor of the building is located. This rule also applies to houses with a basement.

Designers usually prefer a tall one, as it gives the home lightness and grace.

The erection of a recessed brick base on a reinforced concrete strip foundation.

(Further instructions are for building on a ready-made foundation.)

Setting corners when building a basement.

One of the most important rules for laying the basement is the correct setting of the corners, because incorrectly set corners will lead to further curvature of the walls and, accordingly, to marriage in the construction of the building.

The simplest way is this:

In all corners, lay a row of dry bricks, determining the width of the planned basement. The corners are level.

With a tape measure or twine, the lengths of all sides and both diagonals are measured - the dimensions must match up to centimeters and be equal, respectively.

It is also worth checking future walls for possible curvature, using the same twine along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

The process of building a plinth

Waterproofing of the upper surface of the foundation.

Insulation is necessary for additional protection of the basement from groundwater.

Two layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation in the following ways:

on bituminous mastic or heated bitumen;
connection with a burner, processing the surface of the roofing material.

You can use rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material.

Plinth waterproofing

Brick plinth masonry

After setting the corners, it's time to start laying the base. To create it, a brick bonded with a cement-sand mortar is usually used. Only solid red brick is used for construction.

It is advisable to start laying from the corners, then lay out the rows opposite each other on one side with the thickness of the applied mortar somewhere around 20-25mm.

A plumb line checks the accuracy of laying a vertical surface after 3-4 rows of bricks.

After the final check of the corners, the laying of the wall begins. To make the row even, a thick fishing line is pulled between two corners.

Brick plinth masonry

The minimum height is at least 4 stacked rows, natural stone finishes, finishing tiles or siding are allowed.

If the house has basements, ventilation holes are left on each side of the basement at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil, ranging in size from 7 x 25 to 15 x 25 cm. closed with nets or small bars.

Brick finish plinth

Plinth waterproofing

To protect against moisture penetration, it is necessary to lay waterproofing materials, making a distinction between the basement and the brick wall; for cheap construction, for example, roofing material folded in half can be used. Of course, it is not necessary to manage only with them; the choice of materials for insulation is now quite extensive. Double waterproofing is necessary in order to protect the house not only from the external influence of the elements, but also from the influence of groundwater on the foundation.

Basement waterproofing scheme

Video - how to make a brick base

The basement is the outer part of the building, located on the foundation and being the transition from the base to the walls. In addition to its bearing capacity, the plinth must withstand various external influences. Therefore, it is necessary to choose all materials with special care and responsibility!

Features of a brick base

Before starting execution masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with important details:
If the building material is brick, then you need to decide on the thickness of the frame.

Tip: Based on the size of the building and what material the walls will be made of, the thickness of the foundation directly depends. For example, the thickness for a brick structure should be from 500 mm (in 2 bricks), for a wooden one - at least 250 mm (in 1–1.5 bricks).

Before brick laying, it is necessary to apply a layer of waterproofing on the strip foundation, which will be protection from moisture.

A good roofing material is used as a waterproofing, but in some cases bitumen-based coating compositions are used, which must be applied with a layer of 1.5–2 mm. Rolled material will still be not only more reliable, but also easier.

Brick laying is done flat so that the top layer of masonry overlaps the seams of the bottom row. Before starting laying, it is necessary to stretch the cord along the foundation. Each row must be checked for evenness using a building level.

It is worth remembering that the thickness of the brick base will be different for each material from which the walls of the building are erected.

Preparatory work

This includes the purchase, preparation and subsequent laying of the selected mortar (cement or cement-sand). It is best to purchase solutions labeled M75 for such work.

The prepared mixture is laid out on the foundation gradually with a layer of 2 cm and slightly leveled. In the middle of the layer, it is required to lay a mesh of reinforcement; for its manufacture, VR-1 wire with a diameter of 4 mm is required.

Preparatory work consists of 2 stages:

Checking the diagonal and horizontality of the foundation, which is carried out using a hydraulic level, which first of all needs to check the corners and only then the entire area.
Surface leveling.Attention! If you want to make a foundation at 0, then you need to think about this even during its pouring. And if it is already completely ready, but there are deformations, then they need to be corrected.

What will be needed?

To perform masonry, you will need the following material, which must be reliable and of high quality:

brick;
cement mortar;
Grid.

For work you will need:

Master OK;
pick;
shovel;
order;
cord;
stitching;
levels for construction work and water;
metal rod;
trough;
plumb.

For the construction of the foundation, in addition to bricks, you need to buy the optimal amount of sand and cement.

Laying work

The most crucial stage at the beginning of the construction of the basement is the construction of corners. The first row must be laid out strictly across the entire width of the building. A solution of cement, water and sand should have the following proportions 1:3:3.

ADVICE: sometimes a soap solution is used as a plasticizer. During the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to take care of high-quality ventilation. You can start work only when the angles are equal to 90 degrees, and the dimensions of the width, length and diagonal match.

ATTENTION! If the basement masonry is only made of bricks, then its width should be at least 50 cm, it can only be less if the insulation is made of foam. If the building will have ground floor, then the height of the base is 70–100 cm, if not, then 40 cm.

The brick basement is insulated from the inside as desired, and outside, mastic is required, which is applied with a brush, roller or a specialized apparatus. Laying is carried out with constant control of the level and cord.

ATTENTION! It is impossible to correct inaccuracies using the thickness of the mortar between the rows of bricks - the wall may collapse and then you will have to disassemble the entire structure!

Setting corners

Setting the corners during the laying of the basement is one of the main tasks, incorrectly placed corners will lead to the curvature of the walls!

To do this, put on a dry row of bricks in the corners and determine the desired width of the base. All corners must be level.

Using twine or a tape measure, it is necessary to measure the length of all sides and 2 diagonals - if the corners are set correctly, then the dimensions should match identically.

ADVICE: in order to check future walls for curvature, for this they measure along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

Brick plinth over foundation

You can proceed with the installation only after all measurements have been made. To fix the bricks, a cement-sand mortar is required in a ratio of 1: 3, diluted with water to the required density of the mortar.

The main condition for this work is the careful filling of vertical or horizontal joints with a prepared mortar for the strength of the foundation.

basement insulation

To insulate the foundation, waterproof materials such as polystyrene foam are required, which need to process the entire outer surface, fix it with a special glue - which does not include acetone and solvent - that harm it.

Plinth waterproofing

Before proceeding with the construction of the structure, you need to make sure that all waterproofing materials are in stock - plaster, stone, ceramic tiles.

Waterproofing methods:

Waterproofing is carried out at 2 levels - at the very bottom, before the first brick laying, and on top of the bricks. The easiest way is to lay the roofing material in two layers. The first layer guarantees protection against moisture of the wall, and the second layer provides protection.
Extruded polystyrene foam, which is fixed on the outer surface of the base. Due to the fact that this material has zero water absorption, it has high protective properties. It also has thermal insulation, and therefore will give the structure additional protection.
Bitumen grease is applied to the entire surface of the bricks in thick layers in several approaches. Various plaster mixtures.

ATTENTION! If you combine all the options, you will end up with high waterproofing!

Ventilation

In the laying of the foundation, there must be holes that are at a height of 15 cm from the ground, which will ensure good ventilation. You need to cover the holes with a metal mesh or dampers.

Brick plinth protection

Protection required if necessary to stop construction works. To do this, a film is laid on the structure being erected, which protects the frame from various adverse environmental conditions.

Although this article describes detailed instructions how to lay a brick base, they will not help if there is not even a little experience with these materials.

To begin with, we will prepare all the necessary tools and materials for the upcoming work.

Instruments:

Trowel (trowel)
Pickhammer
Shovel shovel
Stitching
ordering
Cord-mooring
Hydraulic level
plumb line
Building level
2 templates: metal bar 10x10mm and 12x12mm
Concrete mixer or trough
Gloves

materials

Brick
For mortar: cement, sand, plasticizer or lime or Fairy
Masonry mesh for reinforcement

Preparatory work. Foundation

So, let's begin. We have a rectangular strip foundation, on which we will build a half-brick wall.

We check the horizontalness of the foundation with a hydraulic level

First you need to determine how flat relative to the ground level we got the horizontal surface of the foundation? For this purpose, we will use the hydraulic level and check the corners first, and then the entire perimeter along the foundation. (when filling the water level with water, make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube, otherwise the measurements may not be accurate).

In the figure, we see that both corners are at the same level. As the masters say, "is at zero." But this method of measurement cannot be applied if our foundation has discrepancies regarding the level. So let's move on to a more practical way.

Let's lower the 1st flask of the hydraulic level relative to the foundation so that the “0” mark is 5 cm lower than the upper surface of the foundation (with the condition that the maximum difference along the foundation at the max point is slightly less than 5 cm). Opposite the “0” mark on the flask, we put a mark on the foundation. We will not touch this flask now. First, let's check all the outer corners of the foundation, in our case there are 4 of them. To do this, we will transfer the 2nd flask to all 3 corners, and put a mark on the foundation opposite the “0” mark, which is on the 2nd flask. Then we repeat the steps with the 2nd flask, transferring it to other measured points on the foundation.

When we have placed all the marks, we begin to measure the distances between the mark on the foundation and the upper edge of the foundation. In the figure, we measured the distance on two segments: a and b. Let's assume distance a =5cm and b =5cm (a =b). Therefore, the foundation at these points is set to "0".

The second option a \u003d 5 cm, b \u003d 3 cm. Therefore, there is a difference relative to zero of 2cm. Such a foundation needs to be leveled, while we take the highest point on the foundation as zero. There are several ways to align:

leveling screed on a cement-sand mortar using formwork,
brickwork by changing the thickness of the horizontal seam.

If the difference is large, then it is better to level it with a mortar, if it is small, then it is possible with the help of masonry. Just do not forget that the thickness of the horizontal seam allowed according to SNiP should be 12 mm with a tolerance of + 3, -2 mm (according to SNiP 3.03.01-87). When reinforcing, the maximum thickness of the seam should not exceed 16mm. And for reference: the allowed permissible deviation from the horizontal for 10m of masonry is up to 15mm, which is then eliminated by the next row.

Checking the foundation diagonals

Second important point when checking the foundation, it is worth paying attention to the diagonals. Ideally, the diagonals in a rectangular foundation should match. According to the figure, we displayed the coincidence of the diagonals in a small equality D 1 \u003d D 2. If they are equal, we can judge that all our parallel sides have the same length and all 4 angles are at 90 degrees. These conditions are important to us so that our walls turn out to be even.

If there is a slight discrepancy in the diagonals, then this inaccuracy can be compensated during laying by reducing the long side and increasing the short one. Of course, if the thickness of the foundation and the thickness of the masonry allow us to do this.

Waterproofing

After we figured out the measurements of the foundation, we proceed to the next stage: waterproofing the upper part of the foundation. It is carried out using 2 layers of roofing material. The second layer is laid with overlapping seams of the first by 10 - 15 cm. Roofing material can be laid in several ways:

dry, I temporarily press the roofing material to the foundation with bricks (so as not to be blown away by the wind);
on bituminous mastic or heated bitumen;
gluing by heating the surface of the roofing material with a burner.

Modern roofing material has several modifications: rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material. According to their characteristics, they are superior to ordinary roofing material, but their price is higher. A wide choice of rolled waterproofing is offered by TechnoNIKOL.

Why you need to waterproof the foundation before brickwork? It's simple - so that moisture from the foundation does not pass into the basement or brick walls. Moisture can be not only due to rain and snowmelt, but also simply from the capillary suction of water from the soil of our foundation. Moreover, if we have a brick base and brick walls, then it will need to be waterproofed twice:

between the foundation and the plinth;
between the plinth and the brick wall.

Laying out the first row and marking the foundation

The next step is laying out the first row of bricks dry, that is, without using mortar.

What is it for? Masonry is considered ideal when the walls are laid out with whole bricks (without three-quarters, halves, and even more so quarters). Of course, the laying of corners is not taken into account, since brick shares are needed for dressing, and backfills where brick shares can be used. We are mainly talking about the front masonry, which should, as they say, "pleasing to the eye." Therefore, at this stage we will lay out the entire first row dry along the entire perimeter with vertical seams of 10mm. In order for the seam to turn out to be the same everywhere, we will use a template (metal square rod 10x10mm). If, as a result of the layout, we see that the last whole brick does not reach the edge of the foundation, or vice versa, the brick hangs over the foundation, then we can reduce or increase the width of the vertical seam. According to SNiP (3-03-01-87), the tolerance for vertical seams is + -2mm. If you can’t do without a share of a brick, then prepare it right away and determine where to place it. You also need to take into account that if we put the front brick over the basement, then we can make a small extension of the outer verst beyond the edges of the basement, since the basement will be plastered in the future.

After we have laid the entire row, it is necessary to make marks on the foundation (or basement), where we will have vertical seams. Due to the fact that each brick has small errors from standard sizes, it is recommended to use exactly the same brick during laying that we used during dry laying. Therefore, after marking, simply place each brick on the foundation opposite the marks. At the same time, if your roofing material is laid dry, just press it temporarily against the foundation with a brick.

We prepare the brick and the workplace

Do not forget that it is advisable to use the solution within 1-3 hours until it begins to set. Therefore, it is desirable to perform all preparatory work before preparing the solution, namely:

Lay small stacks of bricks along the foundation. If the width of the foundation allows, then the brick can be placed directly on the foundation. The main thing is that it does not interfere with you when laying and at the same time you can easily reach it.
Prepare the necessary tools for the job.

There is another type of work that is recommended to be done mainly when working with solid red brick. Namely, wet the brick with water. Just not until it is completely saturated with water, otherwise the brick will float on the solution. Then the logical question is how long to wet the brick. Experienced masons, according to the results of voting on one popular forum, share this opinion in the following proportions:

do not wet 10%,
wet for a couple of seconds 50%
soak for 15 minutes 40%

Decide which way to choose for yourself, but if you are new to bricklaying, we recommend that you soak it for a while. Soaked brick retains a sufficiently long mobility on the mortar, thereby giving you the opportunity to eliminate possible defects. It is believed that the seam when using soaked brick is stronger, since there is no suction of moisture from the mortar by the brick itself. If you are too lazy to soak the brick in water, then there is a simple way - just pour plenty of water over the brick with a garden hose. www.site

Solution preparation

For laying bricks, we need a cement-sand mortar. To prepare it, we will use the following ratio:

1 share of cement (shovel, bucket, kg)
4 shares of sand (shovel, bucket, kg)
lime or plasticizer or liquid soap (Fairy)
water (by eye).

The ratio of cement to sand may differ depending on the characteristics of the cement-sand mortar we need (1 share of cement to 2.5-6 shares of sand). A plasticizer is added to give the solution plasticity. This characteristic is important for comfortable work during laying.

How to cook?

We take a container for mixing the solution. Ideally, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If it is not there, then any container convenient for these purposes (trough, etc.) will do.
We put 4 shovels of sand into the concrete mixer, and then 1 shovel of cement. We mix.
Add water by eye to obtain the desired consistency. At the same time, add 2-3 drops of Fairy (either a plasticizer or lime) previously diluted in a small amount of water. Mix thoroughly.

The solution should resemble thick honey or cottage cheese, depending on which solution we need.

You can also use our calculator to calculate the composition of the solution and count the number of batches for a concrete mixer:

Brick laying process

We start laying from the corners, the rows of which we display opposite each other at the same level. Why from the corners? Because the corners will serve as guidelines for laying out the walls using a mooring cord. The cord is stretched between 2 adjacent rows of bricks that make up the corner. Therefore, it is very important to observe the horizontal and vertical angles running at the same level against each other.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the so-called "bed" from the solution. If you do not have much experience, then we recommend putting the mortar on one brick that we are going to lay. The thickness of the laid mortar should be somewhere around 20-25mm (by eye), so that during the pressing of the brick, the thickness of the horizontal seam becomes 12mm (horizontal seam standard). We put the solution with a trowel. Our bed should not reach the edge of the foundation (or the underlying brick) by 20-30mm, if the seams are going to be embroidered, or 10-15mm, if undercut. In order for us to get the 12 mm seam we need, you can use a template (metal rod 12x12mm), which we lay along the very edge of the foundation in the place where we will lay the brick. We need a rod template before setting the order. Then, to maintain the thickness of the horizontal seam, it will be possible to use divisions in order. According to the marks on the foundation, we control the location of the vertical seams of the first row.

We proceed to the process of laying bricks on the mortar. We take a brick, put it on the bed and lightly press down. Then, using the level, we check the horizon and vertical in 3 directions, and if we see discrepancies somewhere, lightly knock out the brick with a pickaxe hammer or a trowel handle.

Making corners

Now, using the knowledge gained, we expose the corners brick by brick. The main thing is not to forget that the quality of the masonry of the entire wall will largely depend on how correctly the corners are set. Therefore, we use both an eye and devices that will help us in setting the corners.

Using a plumb line, we check the verticality of the masonry. A plumb bob is considered a very accurate device for checking the verticality of a surface. Probably the simplest and most accurate compared to the building level, which can sometimes fail. It makes no sense to use a plumb line when we have 1-2 rows of masonry, since it is difficult to determine by eye the divergence from the vertical in such a small area.

In the picture, we displayed 3 points equally distant from the masonry. Based on the fact that the distances in these segments are equal, we can conclude that our masonry is laid out exactly vertically. To work with a plumb line, of course, you need to have a good eye, since we determine all the distances between the masonry and the plumb line visually, by eye.

In order to maintain the same horizontal joints and to control the levelness of the masonry, we recommend using orders. They will be especially useful for people with little experience in bricklaying. Orders are set strictly vertically (along a plumb line or level) and are attached to the masonry with the help of U-shaped brackets. The distance between the divisions of the order is 77mm for a single brick (brick thickness 65mm + seam 12mm) and 100mm for a thickened brick (88mm + 12mm).

We pull the mooring cord

After removing the corners, you can proceed directly to the laying of the wall. In order for the whole row to be at the same level, we stretch the mooring cord between two opposite rows, which we have drawn in the same horizontal line. For mooring, you can use either a nylon thread, or a fishing line, or an analogue. The main thing is that it be strong and be visible to you when laying. The mooring can be fixed:

to order, if holes are provided in it;
with staples and nails.

We have shown both methods in the figures.

The mooring is fixed with a vertical indent from the masonry by 2-3 mm, so that there is no contact between the mooring and the brick along the entire length.

If there are no holes in the pier, then you can follow the simple and most common way to install the pier. To do this, we need 1 nail and 1 staple per 1 corner. We insert the nail into the finished seam and tie the mooring to it. Then we insert the mooring into the bracket. We put the bracket with the mooring threaded into it on the brick, along which we will make a row and press the bracket with a free-lying brick from above (without mortar). A stiff wire bent in half can serve as a staple. The figure shows in detail how it will look visually.

If the mooring sags, then you need to install the so-called beacons. For this purpose, 2 bricks are taken. The first is placed, taking into account the thickness of the seam, on the mortar or a rod template (12x12mm), and the second is placed with a poke on the first brick. We insert a nail between the bricks, on which the mooring is wound tightly.

We lay out the bottom row of the wall between the corners

On a stretched quay, we expose the first row of bricks between two corners. The thickness of the vertical joints and the location of the bricks are controlled by the risks on the foundation.

Lay out the rest of the rows

Then we lay the rest of the rows with dressing of seams according to the same principle (in our case, dressing in half a brick). At the same time, we no longer set the risks as on the foundation for the first row, but we make sure that the vertical seams through the row are at the same level. In the figure, this is for example the seams in the 1st and 3rd row. You will find more detailed information about the types and methods of ligation of sutures in our article "".

Further, according to this principle, all the walls of our building are exposed. Do not forget to monitor the cleanliness of the front side of the masonry and embroider the seams until the mortar sets. Also, if masonry reinforcement is necessary, we determine after how many rows we will do it (usually every 5-6 rows). © www.site

Masonry reinforcement

That's all. If you missed something or have questions, you can ask them in the comments.

The basement occupies an intermediate position between the foundation and the walls. It must protect them from moisture and withstand the load of the entire structure, furniture and equipment installed in the building. Last year, my friend and I did the necessary earthworks, laid the foundation for the future home. Now, in his free time, he lays out a brick plinth on the foundation.

Brick plinth on a strip foundation

It is better to choose burnt brick. He has technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, for stability, much higher

On the strip foundation, a support layer is made under the walls of different materials, from cast reinforced concrete to stone. Red brick for the base combines:

the required strength;
simplicity of brickwork;
low thermal conductivity;
budget cost.

Checking the dimensions and geometry of the foundation for the base

I measured the strip foundation with the help of a lath level along and across in several places. This is best done in the corners and every 2 meters of length. By placing a long device, it is easy to determine the presence of a slope. If you only have a corner level with short sides, put a plank underneath.
On the foundation in the corners he laid a dry brick along the outer edge. Then, with the help of Vadik, I checked the diagonal. For a regular rectangle, the size of the cord from corner to corner is the same. If the length is different, then the corners are not straight. For a brick basement of a residential building, a difference in the length of the diagonals of up to 2 centimeters is permissible.
Find the skew, and check the dimensions better with a tape measure. Measured at the corners. The foundation was poured without formwork. The outer walls are uneven. Brick simplifies measurements.

Brick laying pattern and plinth width

What width to make the foundation is determined by the laying of the basement. Standard brick dimensions are 250x120x50 mm. The minimum size can be laid out by alternating rows with transverse laying in one row and longitudinal in two. Such a foundation is made for light houses made of wood, foam concrete, shell rock. Under walls made of wood and light material for cottages on 2 floors, laying one and a half bricks (380 mm) is suitable. Vadik plans 2 levels, a residential attic with insulation. It is better to use a wide masonry for a brick base in two rows (520 mm). House repairs will need to be done on this basis in 15 years.

Determining the size of the finished plinth in width is simple. To the dimensions of the brick is added 10 mm for each seam. I did row alternation:

two rows of bricks across the foundation;
the outer and inner rows are lengthwise, the middle is filled with artificial stones laid transversely.

Such a plinth guaranteed stability for a multi-storey building made of heavy building material. Repair of the basement exterior finish may be required after a few years.

The choice of materials for the plinth of ceramic bricks

When buying a brick, Vadik asked me which one to take and why. I advised him solid. With a temperature difference, especially in winter, condensation appears in the holes - dew. Moisture accumulates, is absorbed into the material and destroys the base. It will need renovation in a few years. A practicing economist, Vadik, was interested in a cheaper way to build a brick basement. I told him about the possibility of using used material. When dismantling buildings and demolishing partitions, if they make major repairs, they break walls. The brick is cleaned of the old mortar and tightly laid in the basement, choosing the less damaged one for the outer rows. In terms of strength, such a top foundation is inferior to that laid out from a new stone, with the correct geometry. Loads on it are made less. Do-it-yourself styling for a beginner is difficult. It is necessary to constantly check the level and select pieces of brick of the right size.

As a binder, I used cement mortar brand M-75. My friend did it in a concrete mixer. Loaded into it:

cement;
sand;
lime milk;
water was added after mixing.

Tip: Lime should not exceed 10% by volume in the dry mix. It is better to introduce it already slaked and dissolved in water - milk of lime. For builders without experience, working slowly, it is better to buy a ready-made mixture with plasticizers and additives that slow down the setting of the solution.

Ligation of bricks in the basement and waterproofing

Do-it-yourself brick masonry

Protective and decorative finishing of the outer side of the plinth and blind area

I made the final exterior finish with a decorative stone on a concrete mortar after the walls were erected.

Official standards for a brick base existed exclusively in Tsarist Russia. At present, the construction of this structural element of the building is justified in the presence of an underground level (basement, technical underground or a whole floor), the need to level the foundation, use it as a decorative element of the facades, if the foundation is flooded flush with the ground.

According to the terminology of the SNiP regulations of 1980, number I-2, the basement is the lower part of the wall, which can sink / protrude relative to its plane (usually ¼ of a brick) or be flush with it. To understand why a brick base is needed, it is necessary to take into account the options used to build the building technologies:

on a slab base, a plinth is necessary for the manufacture of a technical underground;
if a strip foundation is used (prefabricated from reinforced concrete blocks or monolithic), the horizontal level is leveled with masonry for laying floors;
when choosing the technology of a log house, a “framework”, a cottage made of SIP panels, a brick plinth is necessary for an even distribution of structural, operational loads on the base of the house;
the foundation is poured at the zero mark (ground level), the basement provides the necessary level of the floor of the first floor.

Depending on the type of construction, the base has both advantages and disadvantages:

protruding - decorates the facade, emphasizes the original architecture, but quickly collapses without cladding, a protective visor-shedding - is practically not affected by precipitation, water flows from the walls immediately to the blind area, the waterproofing resource increases, the budget decreases;
construction, when facing, the thickness is aligned with the walls;
flush - in fact, it is a continuation of the walls, when finishing it becomes protruding.

The choice of the design of this element is made during the design, depending on the preferences of the owner.

Technology for the manufacture of brick plinth

Having decided what a brick base is for, you can start building. For laying the foot of the building does not require high qualifications, special equipment.

Material selection

Experts do not recommend the use of silicate bricks, concrete blocks due to the maximum hygroscopicity of these materials. In addition to destruction from the moisture they absorb from the air, the earth, they transfer it to the walls or to the foundation. In addition, decorative plaster, which is most often finished with masonry, does not adhere well to their surface. the best choices are:

clinker is the most durable of existing analogues, has a high resource, does not require finishing, is absolutely waterproof, but too expensive, therefore it is rarely used;
clay - more often called ordinary, has a minimal aesthetics of perception, decoration is necessary, the material is chosen for frost resistance (M 150 - M 250 for 50 - 100 seasons, respectively), this is a budget brick that allows you to reduce the construction budget;
ceramics - average price, excellent decorative properties, there are full-bodied, hollow modifications;
porous - minimally loads the foundation structure, does not need cladding, is an improved analogue of ceramics, therefore it costs more, there are large-format modifications with non-standard sizes;
dry, semi-dry pressing - outwardly resembles ceramics, but is not fired, has less frost resistance, is inexpensive, masonry does not need lining;

Solid clay brick is the most suitable material for a plinth.

When choosing a brick other than the walls, the plinth by default becomes an independent design element of the facades.

What tools will be required

To build a brick base, you will need a standard trowel, level, mooring, plumb line, cord, pick. When using facing bricks, it is better to cut with an angle grinder (grinder) with a diamond blade or stone tooling. For the solution, you will need a bucket with a shovel or a bucket with a drill, a mixer. Professionals are able to get by with a piece of roofing material or a sheet of iron, it is better for a home master not to risk the quality of the batches.

For facing masonry, special devices are available to facilitate leveling pastels in each row. The only drawback of the Bricky fixture is its adaptation to foreign bricks, the dimensions of which are somewhat different from domestic counterparts.

Choice of plinth width

The brick plinth has a width depending on the selected type (flush, protruding, protruding), wall thickness. For example, for masonry 51 cm, this value is in the range of 45-57 cm. There are options when the foot is wider than the foundation - in this case, the release of a brick on any side is limited to ¼ of its length (6 cm). If for the thickness of the walls a similar overlap of masonry of the first row along the base is not enough, the foundation will have to be added from the convenient side, increasing its width.

What height to make the base

Due to the lack of regulatory documentation for the construction of the foot of the house, the brick base can be of arbitrary height. Experts do not recommend building it above half of the first floor - this will violate the architecture of the building, the exterior of the facades.

Without a project, only garden houses can be built; in all other cases, the necessary marks for all structures are included in the documentation. Self-builders solve the problem of the height of the foot as follows:

if the foundation is poured at ground level, choose a masonry height of 0.7-1 m;
if a plinth is needed for a technical underground, they are guided by the dimensions engineering systems(usually pumping equipment, valves) that must fit in it;
if the foot is necessary to complete the basement floor, choose a comfortable ceiling height in the lower level.

In the last two options, insulation is often placed in the basement design (if the brick is facing) or external insulation is performed, taking into account its thickness.

Foundation waterproofing

Unlike the outdoor soil, the ground under the house does not freeze in any frost. It contains moisture absorbed by concrete, transmitted to the upper structures. Therefore, the foundation is necessarily cut off from them with a waterproofing layer.

In order to waterproof the foundation with high quality, it is enough to lay two layers of roll material, a membrane or a film around its perimeter. The side surfaces of the concrete tape also need to be treated to protect against flood, ground, melt water. In this case, deep penetration primers that change the structure of the material are much more effective.

The upper waterproofing is overlapped at the joints, protrudes 2-3 cm beyond the perimeter, cut off at the end of the masonry.

markup

Before laying on the waterproofing layer, it does not hurt to check the diagonals, the compliance of the foundation dimensions with the design dimensions. To do this, the easiest way is to install pegs in the corners (0.5-0.7 m from the base of the dwelling), stretch the cords. This will allow you to measure the length of the walls, diagonals with an accuracy of 1 cm.

Ventilation products

The tape base will not be effective if ventilation holes are not left in it. When using bricks, they do not have to be made round; you can make small rectangular, square windows using sheet steel and reinforcement as lintels.

They should be on all walls, including internal partitions. It is impossible to close them for the winter with insulation, plugs - humidity is present in this space all year round. Therefore, it is more reasonable to lay decorative lattices in the masonry or provide for their sizes during construction.

Proportions for mortar

When laying bricks on a strip foundation, a plastic mortar is required. In the standard version, for the manufacture of different grades, different proportions of sand and cement are used, respectively:

M75 - 3/1
M50 - 4/1
M25 - 5/1

The base will be stronger if you use the first two options. At the same time, it is necessary to check the quality of sand using available methods:

Squeeze a handful of non-metallic material in your hand with some effort;
Loosen your grip to check the result;
If the sand woke up on the ground completely, partially, there is a minimum amount of clay impurities in it, in the case of a lump formed (more than 2/3), there is too much clay in the sand for a normal solution.

Excess clay is dangerous due to the forces of frost heaving arising in it - in winter, the masonry can crack. The plasticity of the solution can be given with ordinary soap or detergents by adding a couple of Fairy caps when kneading.

Making corners

To increase the pace of stone work, the corners are usually laid out on a strip foundation along a plumb line / level, after which cords are pulled, the walls are periodically controlled by the rule. Laying corners traditionally requires a highly skilled craftsman or the use of orders. The main condition for the maximum resource of the base is the dressing of vertical, horizontal seams. Depending on the height of the base, an in-line or multi-row dressing can be used:

For laying one and a half bricks, it looks like

Scheme of a single-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 1.5 bricks.

For multi-row dressing, a different scheme is used

Scheme of multi-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 1.5 bricks

When choosing a base in two bricks, the design of the ligation of the corners changes as follows

Scheme of a single-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 2 bricks.

The number of pins here is higher than in the previous case. For multi-row dressing, the scheme is more complicated

Scheme of a multi-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 2 bricks.

Plinth decoration

At the final stage, the strip plinth made of ordinary brick must be lined. For this, facade plasters or special claddings are used:

basement siding - imitation of stone, brickwork;
stone - artificial, natural;
porcelain stoneware is a large-format material with high frost resistance.

Facing is usually done after the construction of the building box, roofing. Using the orders, recommendations of specialists, the home master will be able to avoid mistakes, get the maximum design resource, and ensure a reduction in the construction budget.