The foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse: varieties and installation of the frame. How to properly install a foundation from a bar under a polycarbonate greenhouse? Greenhouse polycarbonate which foundation is better
Any building starts with a foundation. But first you need to choose its design. And for this, in turn, you need to know what foundations are, how they differ from each other and how to make them.
The foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse - which is better
First, let's figure out why a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed at all. The question is really debatable, because the total mass of the frame and skin of the structure rarely exceeds 150-200 kg and is unlikely to sink under its own weight in the summer. But in winter, when a large amount of snow falls, this may well happen. And yet, if we are not talking about impressive buildings comparable in size and weight to a good cottage, the risk of the greenhouse sinking under its weight is not a factor that determines the need for a foundation.
This factor is the protection of plants from sudden changes in temperature. Night frosts in August-September are not uncommon, and their consequences for crops in greenhouses without a foundation can be very sad. Cold air entering through the gaps between the frame and the ground can lead to the death of some plants. In addition, their condition will not be affected in the best way by the sharp cooling of the upper layers of soil in the greenhouse if there is no barrier between them (layers) and open ground. The foundation will be a good barrier to frost.
Important! Continuing the theme of protecting crops from the cold, it is worth saying that for greenhouses designed to work in winter, the presence of a foundation is mandatory. Otherwise, the efficiency of the heating system will be extremely low, and the heating costs will be monstrous for your wallet.
It is impossible not to mention the fact that the presence of a greenhouse made of polycarbonate even the most simple foundation significantly reduce the risk of weeds, bears and other pests.
Although protection is required not only for vegetables and flowers grown in a greenhouse, but also for the structure itself. If a metal or wooden frame is simply installed on bare ground, then over time, excess moisture will contribute to corrosion or rotting of the structure. And this will directly reduce the life of the greenhouse and force you to spend money on repairs or rebuilding in a few years.
And the last, but probably the most important reason why a polycarbonate greenhouse should have a foundation is the windage of the building. This means that with sufficiently strong gusts of wind, the structure will be blown off the spot. And then the greenhouse can simply “travel” around your site, breaking bushes and collapsing itself. Or it can “fly” to the neighbor’s site and damage something there, which is unlikely to please both him and you.
Bar prices
Foundation selection criteria
The factors influencing the choice of the type of foundation for a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate include:
- stationarity of the building;
- expected service life;
- dimensions;
- seasonality of use;
- construction time;
- budget;
- soil freezing depth and soil type;
- aesthetics.
Stationarity. If the greenhouse is moved to a new location every season, then it is simply not practical to build an expensive and complex monolithic foundation. In this case, it is better to give preference to a structure that can either be easily dismantled and moved along with the greenhouse, or re-equipped quickly and cheaply.
Estimated service life. With proper construction, a polycarbonate greenhouse can serve for 8-10 years. Next, you will need to replace the entire skin and some damaged frame elements. And if you assume that the building will “work out” all the time allotted to it and, after repair, will continue to perform its functions, then the foundation for it must be durable. Accordingly, if the greenhouse is designed to be used for two or three seasons, then the opposite is true.
Dimensions. Everything is simple here - the greater the width, length and height of the building, the greater the mass. And so that the frame of the greenhouse of an impressive area does not sink under its own weight, it needs a good foundation.
Seasonality of use. If it is intended to use the greenhouse not only during the summer season, but also in late autumn or winter, then the foundation should lie deep enough to protect the soil inside from freezing.
Construction timeline. It may take a couple of days to arrange the simplest foundation. And for monolithic options - a few weeks. Because the faster you want to start growing plants, the simpler the foundation design you need.
Budget. If the construction is not stingy, then it makes sense to think about building a concrete foundation with a brick base. And vice versa, if there are few funds allocated, then the creation of complex structures for a polycarbonate greenhouse is impractical.
Depth of soil freezing and soil type. If you are building a greenhouse with a high base or, these factors should be considered when arranging the foundation. Neglecting them is fraught with damage to the building during swelling of the soil in the spring.
Aesthetics- the last, but not least, factor influencing the choice of the type of foundation for the greenhouse. Of course, a building based on metal pipes or timber will look less attractive than a structure with a brick plinth, concrete pavement and gutter.
For a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate, the following types of foundation can be used:
- from a bar;
- tape concrete;
- tape with a plinth;
- tape block;
- columnar or pile foundation;
- monolithic slab.
The size of the greenhouse is chosen based on the area of the site, the budget for the construction and the goals that the owner of the plot sets for himself. All greenhouses, except for domed ones, have the shape of an elongated rectangle. Read more.
The most common type of foundation for is a wooden beam structure. Such a design has the following advantages.
- Low cost and terms of arrangement - it is impossible to create something faster and at a lower price.
- Minimum used parts and tools.
- Working with wood is relatively easy.
- No need for overly tight dimensional control.
- After arranging the foundation, you can immediately begin to assemble the greenhouse.
- Ease of dismantling the foundation, its repair or transfer. The latter is especially true for those summer residents who constantly transfer the greenhouse from depleted soil to a new location on the site.
But with all these advantages, you should be aware that a timber-based foundation is not the most durable - depending on the type of wood used and the presence of a protective coating, the service life is from 5 to 10 years. In addition, it is not possible to protect the soil from freezing in this way.
To build a foundation from a bar, you will need the following materials and tools:
- timber with a section of 100x50, 100x100 or 150x150 mm;
- corners with self-tapping screws or dowels for fasteners;
- impregnation-antiseptic and brush;
- sand;
- rope and pegs;
- roulette;
- ruler for controlling angles;
- level;
- pencil or marker;
- electric jigsaw or saw;
- shovel.
Important! Choose a bar from a larch that grows in Siberia. Its wood is highly durable and resistant to moisture and decay. When buying, make sure that the geometry of the timber is in order, and that it does not have a large number of knots or other defects.
Step 1. Clear the area of debris, tall grass and rocks.
Step 2 Level the area.
Step 3 With the help of pegs and a stretched rope, mark the outer and inner edges of the foundation.
Step 4 Dig a trench along the height and depth of the timber.
Step 5 Align the walls of the trench, fill the bottom with a layer of sand or gravel (25% of its depth).
Step 6 Tamp down the layer.
Step 7 Perform measurements and mark the timber along the length, taking into account the method of fastening (on the corners or “half a tree”). Then cut with an electric jigsaw or saw.
Step 8 Treat the material with an antiseptic and let it dry.
Step 9 Assemble the timber into a rectangular box without joints, check the length and diagonals with a tape measure.
Step 10 Connect the structural elements to each other. If dowels are used for this, make cuts in the beam and drill holes for fasteners.
Step 11 Lay the box of timber in the trench. Please note that the mass of the structure can be from 150 kilograms or more, so do the work with several assistants.
Step 12 Fill the gap between the beam and the walls of the trench with sand. On top of the foundation, you can lay waterproofing from roofing felt or other coating with the same characteristics.
After completing all twelve steps, you can proceed with the installation of the greenhouse frame on the foundation.
Advice! If you plan to build a greenhouse of great height and area, then the foundation for it should be stronger. Therefore, instead of one beam, it is more reasonable to use two, as in the image below.
Video - An example of assembling a supporting structure from a bar
Strip foundation with plinth
To build a solid greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate for a long time, it makes sense to equip a strip foundation made of concrete. Given the relatively small mass of the building, the structure can be shallow, that is, not reach the freezing boundary of the soil. By adding a brick base to the concrete "tape", you will improve appearance foundation and its thermal insulation properties.
The disadvantages of such a design include the complexity of the work and the construction time - from the completion of pouring concrete to the start of work directly above the greenhouse, it should take from two weeks to one month. Due to this circumstance, the first growing season in such a greenhouse is somewhat “cut down”.
Advice! To equip a polycarbonate greenhouse in which plants can be grown in winter, the depth of the foundation should be 20-40 cm more than for a building designed for use only in the summer season.
The strip foundation requires the creation of concrete with a brand (in terms of compressive strength) of at least M200. This indicator determines the compressive strength of the mixture and its ability to resist loads. The composition of concrete (depending on the brand) is shown in the table below.
Table. Mass proportions of cement, crushed stone and sand for concrete preparation.
| Concrete grade for compressive strength | Cement M400, kg | Sand, kg | Crushed stone, kg | The volume of concrete obtained from 10 l of cement, l |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| M200 | 1 | 2,8 | 4,8 | 54 |
| M250 | 1 | 2,1 | 3,9 | 43 |
| M300 | 1 | 1,9 | 3,7 | 41 |
| M400 | 1 | 1,2 | 2,7 | 31 |
Advice! The amount of water needed to prepare the mixture can be found in the instructions printed on the bags of cement. On average, one liter of dense cement requires one and a half liters of water.
Step 1. Remove stones, branches and debris from the greenhouse area.
Step 2 Using a tape measure, pegs and rope, mark out the future trench for the foundation.
Step 3 Dig a trench under the foundation with a bayonet shovel. Depth - from 20 to 50 cm, depending on the mass of the future greenhouse, and width - 25-30 cm.
Step 4 Align the walls of the trench and tamp its bottom. In the latter case, it is advisable to use a manual or automatic rammer, which can be rented from companies that own special equipment.
Step 5 Fill the bottom of the trench with sand or gravel and tamp it down. The layer thickness should be 25-30% of the trench depth.
Step 6 On the sides of the trench, mount the formwork from boards or plywood. The formwork must necessarily rest on pegs driven into the ground, otherwise the concrete can “push apart” the lower edge and the foundation in section will become not rectangular, but trapezoidal. Installation of additional screeds from above is desirable.
Step 7 Prepare concrete mix. From the point of view of labor and time costs, it is better to use a concrete mixer rented from a special equipment company.
Step 8 Pour concrete to half the height of the formwork. With a shovel or trowel, try to level it.
Step 9 Lay rebar on the concrete mixture at the corners and along the length strip foundation. Fasten the individual parts together by welding or wire. If there is a risk that the reinforcement elements will “drown” in concrete or move, then use supports called “crackers” or factory-made retainers.
Step 10 On top of the reinforcement, pour the rest of the concrete up to the formwork boundary. Control horizontality with tensioned threads and a level.
Step 11 At a certain distance, insert fasteners under the anchor bolts into the concrete - this is necessary to fix the greenhouse frame on the foundation. Consider installation locations carefully. If it is planned to build a basement, anchor bolts should be located at the joints of the bricks with each other.
Advice! In addition to anchor bolts, the greenhouse frame can be fixed to the foundation using profiled pipes embedded in concrete, as in the image below.
Step 12 Over the next 3-5 days, add water to the concrete so that due to the difference in humidity between the inner and outer layers, defects and cracks do not occur in the foundation. In rainy weather, do not forget to cover the tape with polyethylene.
Step 13 After finishing the “gravy”, leave the concrete to dry for 2-3 weeks, depending on the width and depth of the foundation. In dry and hot weather, this period can be reduced by 1.5 times.
Step 14 After the drying period, remove the formwork.
Step 15 Start building the basement. It is advisable to use red brick for it, since its other types or brands of blocks are too susceptible to moisture, to which the base will be constantly exposed. Masonry spend in half or in a whole brick.
Step 16 Lay a layer of roofing material or other similar material on top of the brick. If you decide not to equip the basement, then the waterproofing is placed directly on the concrete.
There is a type of strip foundation, where instead of concrete, bricks or ready-made concrete blocks are laid in a trench. It differs from the usual design in ease of installation and the ability to start building a greenhouse just a couple of days after completion of work on the foundation. At the same time, the depth of the bricks and their strength characteristics are inferior to concrete grade M300 or M400.
Rebar prices
fittings
pile foundation
The construction of any, even the lightest building on soft soils prone to heaving is a difficult task. Uneven changes in ground level that occur in such areas every season can damage the greenhouse. The solution to this problem is the arrangement of the foundation on piles.
Piles can vary in material (steel, reinforced concrete, wood) and installation method (driving, screwing, laying or pouring into drilled wells). Consider the two most popular ways of arranging a point foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse - on screw and concrete piles.
The main advantage of the first type of piles is the ease of installation. The durability of steel screw structures is comparable to the service life of a frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse. Perform the installation process step by step as follows.
Step 1. Mark the site and places for screwing piles. They should be located at the corners of the greenhouse and along its walls with an interval of 1-2 m, depending on the mass of the entire structure.
Step 2 Dig holes at the pile installation points with a depth of 20 to 50 cm and a diameter 3-4 times larger than that of the piles. This can be done quickly and efficiently with a drill.
Step 3 Install the first pile and start screwing it into the ground. To do this, you can use both manual devices and special equipment. The screwing depth should be 1.5-2 m - it is necessary to go below the soil freezing limit and get to its harder layers that are not subject to swelling.
Step 4 Repeat the previous step with the rest of the piles.
Step 5 Align the piles in height. The easiest way to do this is with a grinder. As a result, the piles should protrude 10-15 cm above the ground.
Step 6 Lay a grillage on top of the piles, to which, in turn, the frame of the greenhouse will be attached. The most popular option is from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm, use long self-tapping screws as fasteners. Other examples of grillages can be seen in the image below.
Advice! Between the pile head and the grillage, it makes sense to lay a layer of waterproofing.
Reinforced concrete piles, unlike screw piles, are not screwed into the ground, but are poured into pre-dug holes. They are used in cases where, due to heaving of soils, the arrangement of a shallow strip foundation is risky. Also, such reinforced concrete piles are called bored.
Step 1. Mark the points where the piles will be located.
Step 2 Using a manual or automatic drill, drill holes with a depth of 1.5-2 m.
Step 3 Install the formwork in the well. It can be an asbestos pipe or roofing material.
Step 4 At the bottom of the well, pour layers of sand and gravel, then, if possible, tamp.
Foundation from the inside
Step 5 Inside the formwork, lay a pre-welded or wire-twisted reinforcement structure.
Step 6 Then pour concrete grade M200 or higher into the formwork. Perform the process in separate layers, each of which is given time for the initial setting. Usually this period is several days. After that, give the entire mass of concrete time to fully set and harden.
Step 7 Remove the formwork, align the piles in height and install the grillage.
Important! When thinking about choosing a pile foundation, one drawback should always be taken into account - such a design does not provide good thermal insulation and protection of plants in the greenhouse from drafts and pests, and the soil from freezing. Give preference to piles only if the arrangement of a different type of foundation on your site is not possible.
Prices for screw piles
screw piles
Column Foundation
Another type of foundation, resembling a pile in its design - columnar foundation. It is cheaper and simpler than the previous options, but, given the small mass of the greenhouse, it is also able to perform its tasks well.
Step 1. Mark out 40x40 cm squares at the corners of the future greenhouse.
Step 2 In these squares, dig rectangular holes 30-50 cm deep.
Step 3 Align the walls of the pit, tamp the bottom.
Step 4 Fill the bottom with a layer of sand 15 cm thick.
Step 5 On top of it, create a column of masonry or ready-made concrete blocks. As a result, its height should be 10-20 cm above the ground.
Important! If possible, do not use those types of bricks and blocks that are prone to absorbing large amounts of moisture.
Step 6 Install a grillage made of timber on brick pillars, and on it, in turn, a polycarbonate greenhouse frame.
Monolithic slab foundation
Interested in a design that can provide stability even on soft soils and at the same time protect the greenhouse from drafts, pests and hypothermia? Have you decided to build a very large building suitable for growing vegetables on an industrial scale at any time of the year? If so, then in such a case, a monolithic concrete slab as a foundation is the best choice. This is the most expensive, but at the same time the most reliable and effective option. The design of a monolithic concrete slab has no fundamental differences from a shallow strip foundation; you can see it in the image below.
Now consider the stages of creating such a foundation.
Step 1. Mark out using pegs and string. Particular attention should be paid to the control of the diagonals and the perpendicularity of the sides.
Step 2 Dig a pit at least 50 cm deep.
Step 3 Backfill with layers of sand and gravel. Their total thickness should be 25-30% of the depth of the pit. Tamp them down and, if necessary, cover with geotextile.
Step 4 Install formwork around the perimeter of the pit. Fill the space between it and the ground with gravel.
Step 5 Install fittings and drain pipe.
Step 6 Pour concrete up to the edge of the formwork. This stage is very important and requires a professional approach - it is necessary to ensure a perfectly even screed. Enter anchor bolts or other fasteners for the frame of the greenhouse.
Step 7 Wet the concrete for a week.
Step 9 Remove the formwork, fill the gap between the slab and the surrounding ground with crushed stone.
Summing up
So, what type of foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is better? It all depends on what you expect from him. Do you need a cheap and simple structure that can be built in a couple of days and immediately begin to install a greenhouse? Choose a foundation made of timber or on pillars of bricks. Do you want to build a capital greenhouse, designed to work in winter and have an attractive appearance? Then you should choose a strip foundation with a red brick base.
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A greenhouse with a polycarbonate coating can be built with your own hands or purchased as a complete set. Regardless of the method, material and authorship of manufacture, the structure will have to be installed and fixed in its intended place. Temporary installation is carried out using T-shaped legs of personal or factory production. However, for a longer or permanent location, a solid foundation is needed. To make it strong and reliable, you need to figure out how to make a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse, and at the same time which version of its device will be easier and more cost-effective to implement.
Types of foundations for light greenhouses
The classification of foundations for greenhouses practically does not differ from the principles of dividing into types of foundations for low-rise domestic and residential buildings. The only difference is that the creator of the green house does not need to go deep below the level of seasonal freezing of the soil. Note that for the middle zone in domestic open spaces, the freezing depth values vary from 1.0 m to 1.3 m, and the maximum depth of greenhouse foundations is 0.2-0.3 m.
A super-light polycarbonate greenhouse does not require a powerful base, because the weight of even large-sized models rarely exceeds 100-120 kg. This mass is excellently distributed on miniature foundations, structurally "fitting" into the usual building standards, such as:
- tape type, which is a continuous strip around the perimeter of the building. The tape can be completely located in the ground or partially protrude above the surface in the form of a low base;
- monolithic or slab type, which is a slab that completely occupies the building area. The monolith, by analogy with the tape, is partially or completely buried in the soil;
- point type, in fact, which is a simplified likeness of a pile foundation. Only the function of piles is performed by concrete, brick, wooden posts or very practical, but by no means cheap screw metal supports.
Bases for greenhouses are made of materials traditional for the construction of foundations for one / two-story buildings. Use wood, concrete, brick, foam concrete blocks, steel products. In the construction of a tape or point base, only one material or a combination of several varieties can be used. For example, a wooden grillage is laid on concrete, metal or brick points, or a wood trim is mounted on top of the concrete tape.
Plates are poured extremely rarely. This is expensive and not very reasonable, because the concrete monolith will forever block the fertile layer. The monolithic method is loved abroad. There, two / three-tier racks for plants are being built in greenhouses, or boxes with soil mixture are simply placed on a concrete floor with artificial heating.
The reverent attitude of compatriots to every centimeter of land allotment dictates the search for rational methods of its use. Therefore, a strip and point foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is more acceptable and desirable.
However, not everything depends on personal preferences, their geological and hydrogeological circumstances are stronger, according to which:
- a low strip foundation is acceptable for installation in the case of a low groundwater table. The tape is arranged in soils that are not prone or slightly prone to heaving. Ideal enclosing rocks are sands, gravel deposits, which are distinguished by good filtration properties. If there is clay soil at the greenhouse construction site, it is replaced with crushed stone or bulk sand;
- a point foundation with often a wooden grillage is arranged where, during the season of abundant rainfall, excessive moisture is observed on the site. In such places, after rain, puddles “stand” for a long time if a drainage system is not arranged on the site. The second reason for the construction of this type of foundation is the massiveness of the greenhouse structure, the third - the slight heaving of the soil, i.e. the ability to expand in frost and again take the usual size and position after thawing. This means that if the foundation will be placed on clay rocks or the owner is going to build a large-sized "green house", he needs a point base;
- a monolithic foundation is required for a large greenhouse being built on unstable heaving soils. Those. on loams, sandy loams, clays, peat, as well as on technogenic deposits dumped by someone/how/what. In the process of swelling, which, as a rule, occurs unevenly, the monolith will “extinguish” ground movements. It will simply play the role of a tray tilting and returning to a horizontal position, monolithically protecting the integrity of the greenhouse frame.
In the list of selection guidelines, not the last place is occupied by economic considerations. The cheapest cost is the base of wood. Financially secure adherents of glamorous delights, technological rules do not prohibit building a greenhouse foundation from rubble stone or brick. The economic “middle peasant”, planning to build a solid greenhouse in a permanent place, has the right to prefer concrete in the form of a tape filled or folded from blocks. Costs will be significantly reduced if only the supports of the point base are made of concrete, brick, timber or blocks.
Another important selection criterion is the pace of construction, which depends on technological nuances. Here, again, wood is in the lead due to the simplicity and ease of working with long products. The construction of the foundation from blocks will go "more fun" than from brick or natural stone, because the masonry elements are larger. Owners who decide to pour concrete will have to come to terms with the long-term construction. Complete curing of the solution will occur only after 28 days. Quite quickly, the construction of a point base with screw supports and a wooden grillage, but not everyone will like its cost.
Let's summarize. A home master who decided to build a foundation for a light greenhouse from the now popular polycarbonate with his own hands should:
- determine the optimal type of base, focusing on the conditions of the site of the upcoming construction and the weight of the greenhouse structure;
- then make at least a freehand drawing and roughly calculate how much the foundation will cost him. This action will help to replace expensive material in the plans with more affordable ones in a timely manner;
- choose the most appropriate time, taking into account the difference in the rate of construction of various types of foundation.
Another very important aspect affects the choice and costs: will the home craftsman be able to complete all the stages of work with his own hands or will he have to resort to outside help? And for this, information is needed on the principles of construction of popular types of bases for a polycarbonate greenhouse.
The principles of building foundations for a greenhouse
The labor intensity and speed of building greenhouse foundations are directly related to the technological features of the material chosen for construction. Therefore, we will first consider the most simple in construction and quickly erected wood options, and then we will move on to complex positions made of concrete, brick, and blocks.
Wooden base construction
Wood is an incredibly easy-to-use, lightweight, affordable material that allows you to implement a lot of different projects. From timber, logs, boards and even from sleepers, the use of which in greenhouses is not welcome due to toxic impregnation, they construct a tape of any degree of complexity. The beam is used in the device of grillages of point foundations. The flooring of greenhouses with the floor and the upper layers of concrete and brick bases are made from the board. Wood attracts with the ability to form structures without problems and special difficulties and connect long-length lumber in a way acceptable to the performer.
Tape is a large-scale frame, assembled in accordance with the dimensions of the lower trim of the greenhouse. You can make it in one day. Moreover, immediately after the construction, the base is completely ready for the construction of a greenhouse frame above it. Thanks to clear dimensions, a number of operations required for bricks and blocks can be eliminated, which has a beneficial effect on the mood of the builder and the speed of construction.
The video will acquaint you with the features of the construction of a lumber foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse:
The owner, who adequately owns a simple carpentry tool, has a wonderful opportunity to build a point foundation exclusively from wood. With diligence and patience, the home craftsman will show off his skill and build a reliable foundation with minimal financial investments:
Improving the procedure for arranging a point foundation with a wooden grillage gives amazing results. An elementary modernization consists in the use of factory foam concrete parts instead of supporting columns made of timber. The use of ready-made foam concrete supports will eliminate the process of pouring with a preliminary formwork for each column, so that the future owners of the greenhouse will be able to win at least a month.
The example shown in the photo demonstrates the process of building a small-sized point foundation on four foam concrete supports. The development of this idea is associated with an increase in points to the required number. If our compatriots do not find foam concrete products in the form of a truncated pyramid on sale, ordinary wall blocks with dimensions of 200 × 300 × 600 (width-height-length) are quite suitable. Of course, the support columns expanding towards the base are noticeably more stable than parallelograms traditional for us. But there is a way out. To ensure stability in the recess formed for the support, the bottom should be strengthened:
- we form a recess under the support. It must be larger than the block being installed into it. The walls of the recess should deviate from the outline of the planned support by approximately 5 cm on each side. Depth is about 45 cm, i.e. the sum of two thirds of the length of the wall foam concrete product is 40 cm plus 5 cm for reinforcement. If the unit is installed on its side, then the depth of the recess will be 20 cm (half the height of 15 cm +5 cm);
- the bottom of the excavation is covered with wet sand in a layer of 7-8 cm. It must be compacted so that a dense sand cushion is obtained, and the depth of the excavation is reduced by 5 cm;
- then a support is installed on the bottom, and the space between it and the walls of the excavation is filled with clean sand or gravel.
The parameters of deepening the blocks into the ground depend on the preferences of the potential owner. It should be noted that the higher the supports, the higher the grillage will be located, and therefore the entrance to the greenhouse, which is not always convenient.
Monolithic concrete options
In terms of technological capabilities, concrete rightfully occupies a leading place in the list of building materials. Supports in the form of cylinders, cubes and parallelograms, grillages, tapes, slabs - all types of foundations and their components can be made from a solution that turns into a super-hard artificial stone in a month. However, the complexity of pouring and the monumentality of objects created for many decades often makes one think about the appropriateness of the application. True, for a stationary large greenhouse with a polycarbonate coating, a concrete base is an excellent option.
Most often, a tape is poured from concrete. If we decide, then we will act according to the following algorithm:
- we draw a foundation diagram according to the dimensions of the lower trim of the greenhouse frame. The minimum thickness of the foundation strip laid along the perimeter of the greenhouse is 10 cm;
- break up the site. First we put pegs in the corners of the foundation, then we carry out a cast-off;
- we dig a shallow trench, 20-25 cm wide more than the width of the foundation, 20 cm deep;
- we fill the bottom of the trench with wet sand and tamp it down until a dense 5-centimeter layer is formed;
- we build the formwork, focusing on the lines indicated by the cast-off twine. From a low-grade board we build bumpers, the height of which should be 3-5 cm more than the height of the foundation to be poured;
- install reinforcement in increments of 10 × 10 cm. In principle, for a shallow foundation, it is sufficient to fix only longitudinal rods Ø 8 mm at a height of 10 cm from the sand cushion;
- we prepare a concrete mixture by combining in a dry state one part of cement M150-M250 with three parts of crushed stone and two parts of sand. Add about a fifth of the water to the resulting dry mixture. It should be 20% of the total dry mass, the volume of liquid is equal to the volume of cement powder. As soon as a consistency such as thick dough is obtained, it can be poured into the formwork;
- pour, sequentially filling all segments of the formwork. You need to fill it with concrete in one day, breaks are unacceptable;
- compact the fresh filling with a stick, helping air bubbles to part with the mixture. It is better, of course, to get rid of them with the help of a construction vibrator;
- after compaction, according to the dimensions of the greenhouse, we install embedded metal parts into the fill - anchor bolts for fixing the frame;
- we cover the filled tape with polyethylene and wait 28 days for full hardening, not forgetting to periodically spray the surface with water.
By analogy, the construction of monolithic slabs and concrete pillars is carried out, for pouring which they make formwork corresponding to their size. True, craftsmen, in order to save energy and money for point supports, are advised to do without restrictive sides. According to their method, a pit is simply dug out, the bottom is rammed, and first half of the excavation is filled with mortar. After a couple of days, the concrete will set, a piece of chain-link mesh is laid on the surface, then the pit is filled with mortar to the brim. The formwork in such cases is soil, it absorbs a small amount of mortar.
Video about marking the site for the foundation
The use of clinker bricks
Clinker bricks are used to build either a tape type base or low support posts. brick foundation for a light greenhouse, we quite reasonably consider it an unjustified luxury. Masonry is carried out in the usual way with chalks and an early cast-off device. It is not necessary to deepen the brick base if a sand cushion has been previously laid or lean concrete has been poured into a shallow 5 or 7 cm trench.
Details of the device of a presentable clinker base for a greenhouse will be shown by the photo:
Operational construction of foam concrete panels
The construction of the foundation from large-sized panels predetermines the use of construction equipment, but it is being built extremely quickly. The disadvantage of the panels is that it is unprofitable to dig a deep trench under them, and with shallow penetration, rather high and rather cold walls are obtained.
In a fairly extensive range of foundation structures applicable in the construction of greenhouses, there will surely be exactly your option, which will ensure the stability of the frame, and as a result, an excellent harvest.
What is the best foundation for a greenhouse
Like any structure, a greenhouse must be a strong, stable and reliable structure in order to fully perform its functions. The foundation on which it is built is responsible for their high-quality implementation. How to make a foundation for a greenhouse, and what type to choose to ensure the required operating conditions - frequently asked question owners of household plots and private houses.
Why is a greenhouse foundation necessary?
A large stationary greenhouse, unlike small seasonal greenhouses and portable structures, requires installation on a stationary foundation, which is a solid and stable foundation. This need is caused by the requirements of the reliability and safety of the structure:
- The large weight and height of the structure in the presence of strong gusts of wind can be subject to windage, in the absence of a reliable and stable support;
- The presence of a foundation implies the independence of the structure from ground moisture and precipitation;
- Reliable protection against weeds and underground animals and insects;
- Improving the energy efficiency of the building;
- Extending the life of the building, due to isolation from the earth's surface and susceptibility to destruction;
- Protects a crop from penetration of cold and the adverse atmospheric phenomena.
Polycarbonate greenhouses are most in demand and widespread, which also require the installation of a foundation to improve the quality and strength of the structure. Seasonality, size and characteristics of the soil dictate their conditions when the question arises of how to make a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse.
Varieties of foundations
For polycarbonate greenhouses, two types of base structures are mainly used:
- Tape;
- Surface.
Their construction is almost the same, with the only difference being that the construction of a strip foundation requires a deeper trench.
Depending on the materials used to build the base of the greenhouse, the bases for their installation can be:
- timber;
- block;
- concrete-brick;
- slab.
What is the best foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse can be determined if you know the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
Beam foundation
Wooden beam is the cheapest and most affordable material from which the base for a polycarbonate greenhouse can be made. This type of foundation is easy to install, and does not require special tools and specialized equipment. The construction of the timber can withstand a light polycarbonate greenhouse well.
But such a foundation is subject to the detrimental effects of moisture, which is present in the soil and therefore requires frequent replacement. It can be used for no more than 5-6 years, and then it must be replaced, since during this period it can begin to rot and have places of destruction from harmful insects.
To build such a foundation, it is necessary to prepare a wooden beam, the side of which is at least 100 mm. At the greenhouse installation site, make markings for the foundation, observing strict geometry at the corners.
According to the markings, dig a trench and bury the beam into the soil by half its thickness. To protect against premature exposure to moisture, it is recommended to isolate the beam with roofing felt or special moisture-proof mastic.
The resulting structure at the joints can be fastened with iron staples for greater strength. For a better understanding, you can watch the video:
block foundation
Such a base is both a strong protection and does a good job of supporting the structure of the greenhouse. Such a foundation is especially optimal for soil with high humidity, due to its waterproofing properties.
The sequence of work when constructing a block foundation consists of the following works:
- at the first stage, the place for the foundation is marked;
- in the places of the expected corners, pegs are driven in, and the thread is pulled, for greater accuracy;
- a trench is excavated with a depth slightly more than the depth of freezing of the soil and a width of about 30 cm;
- the bottom of the trench is covered with a 10 cm layer of gravel;
- pouring in progress concrete mix;
- blocks are mounted in a non-hardened solution and they are leveled using the mounting level (if there are voids in the blocks, they are poured with concrete or compacted;
Important! The height of the foundation level should be flush with the ground.
With the help of a trowel, the concrete surface of the base is cleaned and leveled, and concrete mortar is added to the seams.
Concrete-brick foundation
Bricks laid on a concrete base make the stability and reliability of the greenhouse structure even higher. But this type of base is not applicable to greenhouses for year-round use, as it is a representative of a shallow type, not protecting against severe frosts and freezing of the soil.
Making such a foundation will not be difficult. For its construction, a trench about 10 cm deep and no more than 20 cm wide will be required.
A wooden board is applied on top, along the level of which the entire perimeter of the foundation is leveled.
At the next stage, it is necessary to hammer in anchor bolts (diameter 12 mm) around the entire perimeter, which will strengthen the fastening of the frame. When the concrete mixture is completely dry (a week and a half), you can start laying the brick layer. In this case, it is worth observing the rule according to which the bolts should be located at the joints of the bricks, which are then sealed with cement mortar.
slab foundation
Mounting such a foundation is the most difficult, but at the same time it provides reliable insulation not only from water and pests, but also creates the conditions for long-term operation of the greenhouse. The presence of a drainage well helps to solve the problem of communications, ensuring the descent of excess water through the hole. Such a basis requires a more serious approach and accurate calculations.
The rules for installing such a foundation consist in a certain sequence of actions:
- a place is selected for the greenhouse and its marking is done;
- a pit is pulled out with a depth of about 30 cm over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future structure;
- around the perimeter, the pit is fenced with formwork;
- the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of wet sand, and gravel is poured on top. The poured mixture is rammed;
- reinforcement is made by installing a special mesh;
- after the internal space is concreted and its surface is leveled;
- anchor bolts are installed in the frozen base around the perimeter;
Important! For proper drying and preventing the top layer of the concrete mixture from drying out, it is recommended to moisten it periodically.
point foundation
If it is necessary to install a small seasonal greenhouse, it is not always advisable to make a durable and complex foundation. In this case, you can install the structure on a simpler basis - a point foundation. It does not protect against weeds and pests, but it is done quickly and does not require special tools and time to work.
The installation procedure consists of the following steps:
- the territory of the proposed greenhouse is marked on the site;
- at the corners, columns of 0.5 meters are driven into the ground, each of which is pre-treated with an antiseptic composition;
- wooden posts are placed around the entire perimeter at a distance of about 1 meter;
- a building corner is attached to the wooden posts, on which the frame of the greenhouse will be installed.
Foundation made of glass bottles
In search of savings on building materials and at the same time searching for a durable and strong material, some summer residents prefer to use a wide variety of materials for the foundation for a greenhouse. Such a base retains heat well and does not require large material costs. Glass base installation rules:
- along the perimeter of the future place under the greenhouse, a trench 30 cm wide breaks out, to a depth slightly greater than the soil freezes through;
- the trench is poured with a small layer of concrete mix, in which glass bottles are installed in a horizontal position;
- another layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled;
- formwork 30 cm high is installed along the perimeter of the site;
- another layer of concrete mixture is poured into which glass bottles are again installed in a horizontal position, with their neck inside the future greenhouse house;
- concrete mixture is poured from above again;
- alternating layers should be repeated until the height of the foundation is equal to the height of the formwork;
- the last layer is poured concrete and leveled.
To put a greenhouse for year-round use, it is important to establish a foundation. There are several types of foundations. But before installing them, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work, which are the same for all types. It is also necessary to sensibly evaluate your own capabilities, because the installation of the foundation requires a lot of time and effort.
Many gardeners are interested in whether a foundation is needed for a polycarbonate greenhouse. There is no need for a foundation for a temporary structure. But if a long-term operation of the greenhouse is planned, then it is worth building the right foundation.
Benefits of using a foundation:
- The design becomes more durable and reliable. The greenhouse is affected by wind, weather precipitation and other adverse conditions. If you do not take care of the foundation, then the greenhouse can move.
- With the right choice of the type of base, it becomes possible to protect seedlings from pests and weeds.
- The necessary thermal insulation is created for growing crops in winter.
Thanks to the foundation, the greenhouse becomes stronger and more reliable. It is able to withstand heavy loads and provide comfortable growing plants. Be sure to install the base in winter greenhouses.
In order to properly equip the foundation, it is necessary to choose the optimal type of foundation. Each of them has its own characteristics, positive and negative points.
At the same time, for the seasonal construction of the foundation is not necessary. This is just a waste of money, effort and time. Summer residents often build a small greenhouse only in the spring to breed seedlings, after which they dispose of it. But for long-term use of the greenhouse, a reliable foundation is required.
Types of foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse
First you need to identify the purpose of building the foundation. Only then can you choose. It is necessary to take into account the term of operation of the greenhouse. For year-round use, you need a strong base. Sometimes only a protective barrier against insects and weeds is erected.
Foundation types:
- Tape made of concrete;
- Pillars;
- piles;
- Monolithic slab.
Each type has its own uses. The concrete foundation is the most popular among summer residents. Pillars and piles are a more economical type of foundation. A monolithic slab provides the most reliable foundation.
When choosing the optimal type of foundation, you need to take into account the type of soil, terrain, greenhouse area, climatic conditions and the period of construction.
Many species may require prior leveling of the soil. This is especially true for a monolithic slab. It is necessary to install such a foundation on the most even surface so that the greenhouse does not squint during operation.
Features: how to put a polycarbonate greenhouse without a foundation
If the greenhouse is installed only during the warm period, then the foundation is not needed and you can save on materials and time. But such an installation has its own characteristics. First you need to choose the right place to install the greenhouse.
It is necessary to study the soil and choose a well-lit area. If the soil is sandy, then this is a good basis for planting vegetables. If the earth is made of clay, then the top layer will need to be replaced. The place itself should be well lit. There is no need to build a greenhouse next to buildings that will shadow the greenhouse. If the soil is wet, you will have to equip the drainage system.
Installing a greenhouse without a foundation:
- Preparatory work. It is necessary to determine the perimeter of the greenhouse and mark it with pegs and ropes. Differences and irregularities on the ground no more than 5 cm.
- It is necessary to dig a trench 30 cm wide. The depth of the channel depends on the height of the support. The bottom must be well tamped. The trench must be covered with slate or roofing material to protect the earth from weeds.
- Frame assembly. You need to start with the end walls. You also need to fix the window and door frames. The wooden frame must be treated with antiseptics.
- Installation of polycarbonate. You need to start with the end walls. It is important to fix the layers with the right side so that the protective layer comes out.
You can do the installation of a frameless greenhouse with your own hands. It is important to ensure that the building does not go crooked. To do this, you need to use special tools.
Most often, frameless greenhouses are used for seedlings. You can read about their arrangement at the link:
How to make a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse: preparation
Any construction involves preparatory work. It is necessary to choose the right place and assess the condition of the soil. In some cases, the top layer needs to be replaced.
Preparatory work before installing the foundation:
- Territory cleaning. Clearing it from debris, stones, dry branches.
- It is necessary to measure the evenness of the surface. To do this, in several places you need to measure the ground with a building level. If necessary, it is necessary to level the soil. Somewhere to add earth, somewhere to remove. The top layer needs to be replaced.
- Create markup. Before work, you need to make drawings and, following them, you should place the pegs and pull the rope.
After that, it is necessary to dig a trench and mount reinforcement. The dimensions of the greenhouse depend on the frame itself. It is necessary to take into account its weight and material of manufacture. If this is a classic greenhouse with a metal profile frame with polycarbonate sheets, then the depth should be 50 cm and the width should be 30 cm.
For a winter greenhouse, you need to make a formwork for the base, the size of which should be 30-60 cm in height. The trench itself must be covered with a waterproofing film.
To create a waterproofing, you can use a plastic film or geotextile.
You will also need to install an armored belt. It is simpler and looks lighter than the standard version for residential buildings. It is necessary to stick steel bars into the bottom. The length of one twig is 60 cm. 30 cm are dipped into the ground, and the rest of the height is on the surface of the soil. The rods must be connected with a thick wire.
Pouring the foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands
Filling the solution can take place in two scenarios. In the first option, a sand substrate should be made. It is necessary to pour 15 cm of sand and compact the soil well. After that, reinforcement is installed and cement mortar is poured. In the second option, it is necessary to fill in 10 cm of sand and 10 cm of crushed stone. After tamping and mounting the armored belt, you can pour the solution.
Grades of concrete for pouring the base for a polycarbonate greenhouse:
- M100. Together with sand and gravel, a solution is prepared that can withstand a load of up to 100 kg per 1 cm2.
- M200. With crushed stone and sand, a strong foundation is obtained that can withstand a weight of 200 kg per 1 cm2.
Most greenhouses are installed under the first brand of concrete. This turns out to be enough. The strength of the foundation depends on the proportions of all components of the solution.
We pour the solution into the trench, provided that 5 cm remains to the edge of the soil. An armored belt should also be covered by 5 cm. It is necessary to quickly pour concrete so that the solution does not have time to harden before it is evenly distributed over the trench. After that, it is necessary to cover the foundation with polyethylene.
On the foundation, you can install a finished polycarbonate greenhouse from the manufacturer. The criteria for choosing a quality product are described in our material:
How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse with a monolithic foundation
First you need to do the preparatory work. To do this, you need to clear the soil, make markings, remove the top layer of soil and dig a pit. Its depth should be 30-40 cm. It is also necessary to cover the bottom with polyethylene or geotextile.
The sequence of installation of a monolithic foundation:
- Footing installation. It is necessary to pour the solution on the sandy layer and smooth everything thoroughly.
- Formwork creation.
- Covering walls and footings with roofing material or slate.
- Reinforcement. It is necessary to install steel rods and wrap them with thick wire.
- fill concrete mortar. You need to do this procedure quickly enough so that it does not have time to freeze.
All operations are similar to the installation of a strip foundation, only the scale will be larger. The coating of a monolithic slab must be moistened periodically. After a day or two, you need to install the anchor and leave the surface in this form until it dries completely. After the final drying, it is necessary to install roofing material on top of the slab.
The drain inside the greenhouse must be taken care of before pouring concrete.
You can do all the work yourself. But at the same time, you need to understand that installing the foundation requires a lot of effort, finances and time. In this case, the concrete cannot be poured gradually. You need to do it in one go.
Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on a foundation (video)
Exist different types greenhouse foundation. Which option will be better depends on the desires of the owner and the purpose of the base. It is imperative to mount the foundation for winter construction and with significant loads on the soil. For a temporary greenhouse, you can not install the base.
Examples of a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse (photo ideas)
Polycarbonate greenhouses have long occupied their niche in the Russian greenhouse market. They attract with their reliability, durability, high thermal insulation characteristics, ease of handling. The only downside is the cost. Polycarbonate is much more expensive than ordinary film, but it is also much more reliable.
For a greenhouse to last a really long time, it needs the right foundation. The foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse can be made of concrete, bricks, blocks, wooden beams, monolithic slabs or metal posts. The choice of a suitable option depends on the characteristics of the site and the characteristics of the operation of the greenhouse. In the article we will tell you how to choose the right type of foundation, what functions it should perform, and how to properly arrange it.
Do I need a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse
Polycarbonate is a fairly light material and it does not create additional loads on the base. Even if the greenhouse does not stand on the foundation, the likelihood that it will sag under its own weight in spring, summer and autumn is extremely small. In winter, the situation changes, the weight of the winter greenhouse increases significantly due to snow attacking the roof. Therefore, if the greenhouse is not planned to be dismantled for the winter (and in the case of polycarbonate, almost no one does this), there should be a foundation for the greenhouse.
In addition to supporting the structure, the foundation performs a number of additional functions. Why is it needed:
- Greenhouses without a foundation are highly susceptible to soil movement. In the spring, during a flood, or at any other time with heavy precipitation, the soil can float, and with it the greenhouse will come into motion. The problem is especially relevant for clay areas.
- Greenhouses are subject to windage. A strong wind can overturn or blow aside a polycarbonate greenhouse without a foundation. Therefore, during the construction of the greenhouse, it is firmly tied to the base.
- The base for the greenhouse made of polycarbonate protects it from the harmful effects of the soil. Wood rots, steel corrodes. If the structure stands on a foundation, this will significantly extend its service life, since the frame of the greenhouse will always be dry.
- The most vulnerable place in the thermal insulation of the greenhouse is the bottom. That's where cold air accumulates. If the foundation protrudes at least a little from above the soil, this will save up to 10% of heat. And for the arrangement of a polycarbonate winter greenhouse, the foundation is simply a necessity. Otherwise, the farmer risks spending a lot of money on heating the greenhouse alone. It is important in this case to fill the foundation on a par with the level of soil freezing in the region or even deeper than this level.
- The foundation protects the greenhouse from penetration of fog and cold air currents (for most plants in a greenhouse, fog is fraught with diseases).
- Thanks to the foundation, neither rodents nor insect pests will crawl inside the structure. Of course, the danger of flying insects remains, but at least the farmer will be able to protect his crop from moles and mice.
- The base can also perform an aesthetic function. So, a red brick foundation for a greenhouse will look rich and attractive. This method should be resorted to in flower greenhouses, which are placed not in the garden, but in the yard.
What is the best foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse?
As mentioned above, the choice of the type of foundation depends on the specific features of the site and the features of the operation of the greenhouse. So, if the greenhouse is planned to be used in the winter, the foundation should be more reliable and durable. If only in the spring and summer, the foundation can be made simpler.
There are the following types of foundations for polycarbonate greenhouses:
| foundation type | Advantages | disadvantages |
| Wooden | Cheap, lightweight, easy to install and operate. | Not durable enough in conditions of high humidity (at great depth) quickly rots even after treatment with antiseptic compounds. |
| Concrete-brick | Easy to install, can be raised to any height, well resists soil deformations. | It accumulates moisture, from which it collapses faster. |
| Concrete | Very durable, well resists moisture and other aggressive factors. | It has low thermal insulation performance, is quite massive, which causes problems during its dismantling. |
| Blocky | Easy to install, costs a little more than wood. | It breaks down quickly, does not hold heat well. |
| Columnar or pile | Easy to install, reliable. | Requires additional strapping and insulation of the base. |
| slab | Very reliable and durable. | It is difficult to assemble, difficult to dismantle, it is required to provide an additional soil drainage system, since the plates completely enclose the structure from the external environment. |
Below we will tell you which foundation is best for a polycarbonate greenhouse and how to put the greenhouse on the finished base.
Wooden beam foundation
The foundation of the timber under the greenhouse- one of the most common options. Ideal when using a greenhouse exclusively in the spring and summer (the wooden frame is not buried, which means that cold air will penetrate into the greenhouse in winter). Also, wooden base- this is not the best choice for a glass greenhouse, as the glass is heavy, which will contribute to the sagging of the structure.
When choosing lumber, you should pay attention to the following points:
- Breed. The most reliable deciduous woods, such as linden. But softwoods are much cheaper.
- grade. The more knots on the profile, the worse. Firstly, it affects the strength of the tree, and secondly, it is from the knot that lumber most often begins to rot.
- Antiseptic treatment. The base must consist exclusively of those sleepers that have been previously treated with special protective agents. If this was not done at the sawmill, the processing must be done by yourself. Otherwise, the tree will quickly rot.
- Humidity. Sleepers must be dry. Of course, you can dry them at home, but this will take extra time. In addition, the tree should only dry in the shade and it should be firmly pressed on all sides so that it does not twist in the process.
Installation of the base from a bar for a greenhouse should consist of the following steps:
- Soil marking.
- Log stacking. If necessary, a trench is dug under the greenhouse from the timber so that the logs can be buried in the ground. Such a foundation will be more reliable. In any of the cases, the beam is laid on the roofing material (in extreme cases - on the film).
- The bars are connected in a paw, in half a tree, using metal corners, nails, or pins from reinforcement. Various combinations are allowed. For example, a half-wood connection with additional fastening with metal corners.
- To make the greenhouse building even, the base is leveled with a level. Where necessary, substitute wedges and sprinkle sand.
Strip foundation with plinth
On my own strip foundation is quite inexpensive yet it is very reliable. The installation process consists of the following steps:
- Soil marking. The foundation for the greenhouse must have angles strictly at 90 degrees, so the markings must be even.
- Trench device. A trench is needed 50 cm deep (as little as possible) and 25-30 cm wide. The dimensions of the foundation can be varied at your discretion, but the wider and deeper it is, the more reliable it is.
- Pillow device. To a depth of 15-20 cm, the trench is covered with a mixture of sand and gravel, after which it is desirable to compact the pillow for the strip foundation.
- Formwork device. From the boards, shields are constructed to a height of up to 50 centimeters above the ground. It is important to note the level of concrete pouring inside the shields. To do this, use the usual building level, so that it does not happen that on one side the foundation is much higher than on the other. The shields are additionally supported with pegs and connected with transverse beams so that the concrete does not squeeze out the formwork.
- Pouring concrete. During pouring or immediately after it (until the concrete has set), special fasteners are mounted in the foundation, on which the greenhouse frame will subsequently sit. So, with a metal frame, ordinary fittings can be used as fasteners, to which the profile will subsequently be welded.
- Basement construction. After the concrete has dried (the time for complete drying is 28 days), the construction of the basement is started, which makes it possible to give the greenhouse a more attractive appearance. Also, a brick base improves thermal insulation characteristics.
block foundation
Unlike the foundation for a brick greenhouse, a block foundation is much more reliable.. Especially if special FBS blocks are used to create it. The foundation device for a greenhouse made of blocks has the following stages of creation:
- Soil marking. As in any other case, the foundation for a greenhouse made of blocks must have all angles strictly at 90 degrees.
- Trench device. Depth - 50 cm, width - 10 cm more than the width of the block.
- Pillow device. A mixture of sand and gravel is poured to a depth of 15-20 cm.
- Concrete foundation device. A concrete base is poured to any suitable depth, but not less than 20 cm.
- Foundation device. Like a brick foundation, the blocks must lie on a waterproofing material, so roofing material is placed on the concrete and only then foam concrete or any other blocks are arranged. It is important to consider that the base of cinder blocks should not be below the ground level, since the slag strongly absorbs moisture, which is destroyed.
Any suitable height can be chosen for a foam block greenhouse. From the material, you can create whole walls, or lay it in just one or two rows.
pile foundation
In uneven areas, or areas with unstable soil, it is recommended to use a pile foundation. A greenhouse on stilts can stand for a very, very long time. In this case, the greenhouse itself is more likely to have time to collapse than the foundation. We will give an example of a screw pile device for a greenhouse:
- Soil marking. It is necessary to mark first the general perimeter of the greenhouse, and then separately mark the places where the helical piles will be mounted. The step between the supports is about 2 meters. At the same time, each corner must have its own support.
- Installation of piles. To quickly wrap the piles, it is recommended not to work alone. For screwing to a greater depth, special equipment is used. It is necessary to deepen the piles until they reach the solid, indestructible soil rocks (about 2 meters). another place.
- Binding of the screw foundation. A grillage is mounted on the piles (a concrete screed created according to the principle of a strip foundation, which connects individual piles into an integral, reinforced structure). For the grillage, a cement-sand mortar is used in a ratio of 1: 3 (provided that cement grade M-500 is used). There must be reinforcement in the grillage, since, in fact, it hangs in the air, which means it is subject to additional loads. Without reinforcement, concrete will sink down over time.
On the pile foundation you can create any structures, without any restrictions: arch type, gable, single slope, etc. The main condition for this is a strictly vertical arrangement of piles and the reliability of the grillage.
Column Foundation
In fact, a columnar foundation is an analogue of a pile foundation, with the only exception that it is not recommended for use in areas with unstable soil due to the fact that the columns cannot be lowered to the same depth as the piles. The order of the device is as follows:
- Mark out the area.
- Dig a hole for the posts. The supports should be located at a distance of about 2 meters from each other, while each corner must have its own column.
- Installing columns. Supports can be made of metal pipes or concrete. In the first case, the pipes are simply hammered as deep as possible into the ground. When concrete columns are used as supports, a formwork is mounted above the excavated recess and a cement-sand mortar is poured there. If subsequently a frame from a profile pipe is mounted on the foundation, they are concreted in advance in a column metal mount, to which the frame can subsequently be welded (screwed).
Monolithic slab foundation
A monolithic slab is suitable for soils with unstable soil. It is very expensive, it is difficult to mount it, but such a foundation can last up to 100 years. The process of creating a monolithic concrete slab consists of the following steps:
- Soil marking.
- Pit device. In this case, it is necessary to dig a pit under the entire area of the greenhouse, and in addition to each edge add another 10 centimeters so that the greenhouse stands exactly on the slab. The depth of the pit is 50 cm.
- Drain pipe device. Since a monolithic slab will not allow moisture to leave naturally, it is necessary to create drainage. To do this, a drain pipe is installed in the center of the greenhouse, which is taken out of the borders of the greenhouse.
- Pillow device. If the slab is poured into unstable ground, a cushion is required. To do this, mix one part of gravel with two parts of sand and fall asleep to a depth of 15-20 cm.
- Prefill. Another 20 centimeters of the pit is poured with concrete mortar.
- Formwork device. After concreting, the formwork is installed. The formwork for the foundation of the greenhouse should protrude 20 centimeters above ground level.
- Laying waterproofing material. As a waterproofing, you can use ordinary roofing material or special geotextiles. Laying is overlapped to prevent moisture penetration.
- Rebar laying. The more reinforcement, the less chance that the plate will crack. To do this, you can use a special reinforced mesh or reinforced rods. In any case, the reinforcement should not touch the formwork, otherwise it will subsequently begin to rust in this place.
- Slab pouring. Filling should be done in such a way as to ensure a slope towards the center of the greenhouse, where the drain pipe is located. The edges of the monolithic slab, where the frame of the greenhouse will be installed, must be located strictly according to the level. Immediately after pouring, fasteners are installed for the future frame of the greenhouse. If necessary, curbs can be installed along the edges of the monolithic slab, which will positively affect the stability of the greenhouse frame.
In practice, no one builds such a complex structure for a greenhouse. Throw out the preliminary filling from the above list.
How to make a foundation for a greenhouse with your own hands?
To make a foundation for a greenhouse with your own hands, you will need:
- Yardstick. It is desirable that it be no shorter than the length of the future frame of the greenhouse, simply because it is more convenient to take measurements.
- Pegs and laces. Necessary for marking the site.
- Bayonet and shovel. Necessary for the installation of a trench of the desired depth.
- Concrete mixer. Needed to speed up and facilitate the process in the preparation of the cement mixture.
- Screwdriver or hammer.
- Expendable materials. Sand, gravel, cement, water, rebar, formwork boards, self-tapping screws, nails.
The first thing you need to do is markup.
An important point, all angles must be strictly 90 degrees.
To determine the evenness of the angle, the "Egyptian triangle" is used. The bottom line is that in a triangle with sides 3, 4 and 5 meters long, the angle between 3 and 4 meters is 90 degrees. To measure, it is necessary to find 3 meters in one direction and 4 meters in the other with the help of a cord and a tape measure from the corner along the perimeter of the trench. If the distance between the points is 5 meters, the angle is even. If not, it needs to be changed.
After marking, they dig a trench. The bottom of the trench must be solid, so after the trench itself is dug, it is necessary to select loose soil with a shovel. If the soil in the area under the greenhouse is loose in itself, the bottom of the trench must be tamped. For this, a wooden beam is suitable.
If the foundation needs to be raised above the ground, formwork is arranged. From below, close to the shields, pegs are hammered into the ground. From above, the shields are connected to each other by crossbars. This is necessary so that the concrete does not squeeze out the formwork. The shields themselves can be made from any wood at hand: old boards, pieces of plywood, etc. Material such as drywall should not be used, as it will not withstand the loads and will immediately burst.
How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on the foundation
The installation of the greenhouse on the base can be started after the complete drying of the concrete foundation (28 days). If bricks were used to build the base, the installation of the base can be started much earlier (after 7-14 days). How the greenhouse is assembled:
Installation starts from the end walls. Vertical supports must be fixed to pre-concrete mounts. It is advisable to do this not by welding, but by using bolts, clamps, corners, etc. The main thing is that, if necessary, the frame can be disassembled and moved to another location.
If no fasteners were previously installed on the foundation, this must be done now. To do this, use a simple method - screwing the fastener to the concrete through the anchor. All fasteners must be strictly opposite each other. Only in this way will the greenhouse turn out to be even, without distortions.
After installing the vertical end posts, they are connected to each other by transverse crossbars. At a minimum, there should be one such crossbar - on top, and it is desirable that there be two of them: above and below. To give greater rigidity from the upper crossbar to the vertical posts, cuts are made.
Also, a door frame is mounted on the front end wall.
Installation of side walls. The side walls are fixed by analogy with the end walls: first, the vertical supports, then the transverse crossbar (only one and only from above), then the slopes from the crossbar to the vertical posts.
Roof installation. The roof can be arched, gable, shed, or in the form of a Mitlider structure. As in the case of the main frame, the roof is assembled in stages. But in this case, it is more convenient to make a base on the ground (make an arched arc or connect two rafters for a gable roof), and attach a ready-made structure at the top.
Polycarbonate lining. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the channels inside the sheet are vertical. Subsequently, the moisture formed inside the sheet will drain through the channels. Polycarbonate should fit snugly against the base.
In order to properly install the greenhouse on a concrete foundation, it is necessary to take care of sealing the joints in advance.
To do this, use either rubber gaskets or building sealant. Mounting foam is recommended to be used only if the gap thickness is at least 1 centimeter. Otherwise, the foam will not give the desired result.
The construction of the foundation and the construction of a capital greenhouse can be ordered on a turnkey basis in a construction organization, or you can do everything yourself. How to make a foundation? The main condition is to make it as strong as possible, with even corners and under a horizontal level.
