To make your site presentable, you can build a fence of facing bricks and perform such an operation as laying pillars. Facade, or decorative, is also called such a facing material. It is an excellent versatile building material for building fences.

An example of facing brick pillars in a blind brick fence

What are the advantages of fences from such building materials

disadvantages

The disadvantages are the appearance of efflorescence on fences of this type. This is an ugly plaque on a brick for a fence. This phenomenon is due to the crystallization of salts during the evaporation of moisture.

But this misunderstanding may not manifest itself if you use a mortar with M400 or M500 cement when laying. This type of cement contains a small amount of salts.

Fresh masonry where fence bricks have been used should be treated. This can be done using a water-repellent impregnation of a special composition - a water repellent.

If a structure is being built in the warm season, then we recommend that you stock up on a summer batch of fence bricks for construction.

Combined fence made of decorative bricks and forged sections

Because, using winter technology for the production of such building materials, salt is added in excess. And therefore, with the onset of heavy rains, one can expect its treacherous appearance on the surface of the fence.

Fences made of hyper-pressed bricks

The technological process of manufacturing this type of building facing material involves combining brick and stone into one. From the brick here are the characteristics for standard sizes. This is necessary to simplify the masonry process.

And the stone itself is a very strong and durable material. These are the technical characteristics that can be seen in hyper-pressed brick, which is quite successfully used for the construction of fences, building cladding and other things.

It looks like a fence made of hyper-pressed bricks

The price of such building material for the fence is cheaper than stone. In addition, it is made with a wide range of colors. The surface is an imitation of the reliefs that are observed in stones.
And their laying is the same as ordinary bricks. You can combine torn and smooth surfaces in design when building a fence. Reviews of the positive characteristics of this material are numerous.

fence building technology

It involves the passage of several stages:

How to fill the foundation

Try to fill it in one go. Try to knead the cement mortar for one hour of work. Don't forget reinforcement. For this case, use a reinforcing wire with a diameter of 10 mm. It is necessary to pour concrete to the middle of the trench, then lay the reinforcement and then pour the rest of the concrete.

Many try only under the pillars. In terms of finances, this saves money by 30%. But in terms of the reliability of the fence, you can lose, because it will crack over time. It can be easily dug up. Although it will be cheap and beautiful. It is also possible to put a channel between the pillars instead of the fundamental base. But over time, this also becomes ineffective.

Brick fence device

Brick can be laid in different ways:

• Half;
• One two;
• Three.

Detailed scheme of a brick fence

In the first option, you can build a fence no more than half a meter high. With such a wall of facing material, you can only mark the boundaries of your land holdings. But you can't hide from prying eyes.

If you use the second option, then your fence will not only be beautiful in appearance, but also provide reliable protection for your site. Usually it is made 2-3 meters high.

This brick laying for the fence is optimal and common. Usually they are erected up to 250 cm in height, and then decorative design takes place.

It can be made in the form of various towers, peaks. The three-brick fence already looks like a fortress wall, which surrounded cities in the Middle Ages. Fifty years such a fence can not be touched in terms of repair or maintenance. It even withstands a crashed car.

Various options for laying a brick fence

If a brick structure will have a thickness of one brick, then per 1 sq. m. you will need 100 bricks. If the thickness is two bricks, then count on 200 bricks per 1 sq. m.
This way you can figure out the fence brick you'll need. In addition, count on the fact that you will also need a certain amount of crushed stone, sand, and reinforcement to build a brick fence.

A fence on brick pillars is an immortal classic, but few succeed in achieving perfectly even seams and edges. In this article, we will not only tell you how to properly lay out brick pillars, but also share some secrets regarding durability and aesthetics.

What should be the basis

Poles will quickly lose their neat appearance without a solid and solid base. Only two types of foundation should be seriously considered: tape and screw piles.

The width of the foundation should not be more than that of the pillar, it looks very ugly. An exception is if you plan to bring the entire yard to the level of the foundation or arrange a blind area-path close to the fence on both sides. In other cases, the foundation should not be wider than the pillar by more than 20 mm, and ideally, be flush with it.

For high pillars, the foundation should be built up in depth, which is not always economical. The depth is approximately 30-35 cm for poles 2-2.2 m high, and for poles above 3 m it is already about 45-50 cm.

At the same time, the foundation profile is constant along the entire contour, that is, more massive pedestals for pillars connected by a less deepened belt are a deliberately bad decision. The height difference will make the concrete more susceptible to bending, which, in principle, can lead to a rupture of the brickwork and is guaranteed to lead to a decrease in its strength.

For these and other reasons, it is better to arrange the foundation for the pillars of a brick fence on screw piles. So the whole structure will evenly rest on the deep layer of soil with high stability. A bunch of pillars with a reinforced belt, however, is needed, it eliminates vibrations in the installation plane. But for the bundle, a much smaller belt is needed, only 40% of the side section of the pedestal under the pole. It deepens only 20 cm, another 10 cm remains above the ground. That is, a standard reinforced belt will have dimensions of only 13-16 cm by 30 cm, it can be placed on the edge for laying a parapet, or turned horizontally and hidden under a layer of soil for laying paving slabs in a single contour.

The reinforced belt connecting the screw piles experiences practically no bending load. It is reinforced with four 14 mm rods, installing them along the edges of a concrete parallelogram with a protective layer of 30 mm and a dressing of 160 mm. 4 pieces of the same reinforcement 3/4 of the column width are welded to the pile pipe. They are placed perpendicular to the reinforcement of the belt at the same level and tied with wire. Another advantage of screw piles is that their pipes can serve as reinforcing rods for pillars.

Pole reinforcement options

If you are not using screw piles, pay attention to the proper reinforcement of the posts. For these purposes, one reinforcing bar is not enough. When laying the column, a cavity is formed, it is filled with cement residues, the layer thickness of which cannot be more than 100 mm, otherwise it will simply tear during hydration.

The first way to avoid this is to reduce the volume of the filler with a 50 mm round or square pipe. If you are using a square profile, orient its edges along the plane of the fence, this will help align the textured brickwork.

The second way is to strengthen the backfill with a square-section frame with a side of 7-9 cm, made of 10 mm reinforcement. Install transverse strapping in increments of 25-30 cm.

The height of both the frame and the pipe should be 15% more than the height of the column. It is this rule that determines the depth of the foundation: it is built up not because of the increased mass of the column, but for a reliable connection between the masonry and the base.

Pillar laying technique

The very technique of laying the pillars is extremely simple and is carried out according to seam patterns - bars 8 mm thick with a square profile, the length of which is 10-15 cm longer than the width of the pillar. The bars are laid strictly along the outer perimeter of the pillar, releasing the edges towards the poke of the brick being laid.

It is convenient to lay out the first row along the square cut of the rolled waterproofing. The side of this square is equal to the length and width of the brick, plus 8 mm of the seam. Bars are placed along the perimeter of the waterproofing, and a layer of M150 cement mortar on M400 cement is laid inside this “formwork”. Then a brick is laid at the corner, a piece of 8 mm square rod 10 cm long is attached to the outer edge of the poke and the end is smeared with cement mortar, fixing the template. The second brick is adjacent to the first in a perpendicular direction, its end is also greased under the bar, then the third brick and the fourth are laid.

The bars from the vertical seams are removed first, pressing down the seam with a trowel from above and pulling the bar vertically. The removed bar immediately measures the seam on the reverse side, making sure of its uniform thickness, and hence the correct geometry of the entire masonry. It remains only to align the horizontal plane of the masonry with a rack level and you can proceed to the next row.

Horizontal bars under the first row are not pulled out immediately, but left for 2-3 hours, for subsequent rows the second set is used. It is advisable not to lay out more than 3-4 rows at a time and move from one column to another as it dries. Pull the bars only in the direction in which they are laid. That is why it is so important to first place them correctly: if you pull the spoon to the side, the outermost brick will certainly move.

In order for the masonry to be truly monolithic, after applying the mortar, two 80 mm galvanized nails are sunk into it perpendicularly in the center of each seam. They cost a penny, but the masonry is guaranteed not to loosen even after 30 years.

How to level a brick

Masters without masonry experience think that leveling textured bricks is more difficult than usual, but in reality, everything is just the opposite. The so-called torn brick does not have strict edges, so all that can give out crooked masonry is the mismatch of vertical seams. And they are very easy to align in one vertical line along a plumb line. The question arises: how to align the first two rows of bricks, because only on the third row do two matching vertical seams appear?

The first row of textured bricks is difficult to align with the waterproofing square, as the torn edge does not have a smooth edge. Therefore, alignment is carried out along the inner, flat edge: the size of the internal cavity of the column is easy to calculate, you can also make a template from the corners.

Brick with straight edges is more difficult to align, any mistake will be visible to the naked eye. Firstly, the eye clings to three geometric landmarks at once: the horizontal plane, the edge of the fence and the vertical seams. Secondly, two bricks from the same batch can have a difference in length and width of up to 0.5%, which results in a difference of more than 1 mm on one side, and this discrepancy will also be striking. Eliminating such a defect is quite simple: if the brick is light, it is leveled, strictly observing the thickness of the seam. If the brick is of a dark tone, it is aligned along the outer edge of the pillar.

After laying out the pillars, they are wrapped in black plastic wrap for 2 days, then the tops are installed. After another week, you need to sweep the seams with a brush and rinse the masonry with a stream of water to remove gray cement stains.

You can make a reliable and relatively inexpensive fence for the site using a combined fence - the pillars are made of brick, and the filling (spans) and any light material - wood, profiled sheet, forged fences. The view turns out to be solid, and the costs are much less than for a “pure” brick fence. Moreover, laying pillars is not the most difficult thing, but profitable. Masters two years ago asked from 2,000 rubles per pole, and today prices have more than doubled. You can fold brick columns for a fence with your own hands without the skills of a bricklayer. It is important to follow the technology and everything will work out.

Fence foundation with brick pillars

The choice of the type of foundation for brick pillars depends on what material the filling will be from and also on the type of soil. If the span of the fence will be made of light material (corrugated board, wood), you can make a pile foundation for each pillar. The depth to which the pile must be driven / twisted depends on the type of soil and the height of the groundwater. If soils are prone to winter heaving (clay or loam) with high groundwater, it is necessary to dig in 15-20 cm below the freezing depth of the soil. On well-drained soils (sands and sandy loams), it is enough to dig in 80 cm.

A pile foundation for a brick pillar is made according to standard technology:

• drill a hole of the required depth (diameter 25-35 cm);
• a bucket or two gravel is poured to the bottom;
• compact;
• they put a pipe around which they will later lay the pillar (on heaving soils, several pieces of metal bars, tapes, corners are often welded to the buried part for greater stability);
• the pipe is set strictly vertically, fixed;
• for heaving soils, if metal pieces are not welded to the pipe, you can stick several reinforcing bars into the hole; for very difficult soils, you can tie a frame;
• high-grade concrete is poured - M300 or higher (read about grades and composition).

The length of the pipes consists of two quantities: from the part that is walled up in concrete and the part that will stick out from above. Moreover, the upper section of the pipe is not at all necessary in this case should be up to the very top of the column. It can be 40-50 cm shorter. An exception is the poles on which the gate and / or gate will be hung. Here the internal reinforcement should be almost to the very top.

If the fence is planned to be completely brick or there are large wind loads in the region, most likely you will need to make a full-fledged strip foundation. Another option is piles connected with a shallow tape.

Fence construction with brick pillars on a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation

Mortar and brick for posts

The mortar is made cement-sand with a ratio of 1:5 (or 1:6). Sand is better to take a fine fraction, high-grade cement - not lower than M400. For plasticity, you can add a little liquid hand soap or dish detergent (20-30 gr. For a standard batch - 1 bucket).

It is important when preparing the solution to obtain the desired fluidity. It should not be dry, but it is also inconvenient to work with liquid, because water is added gradually, monitoring the consistency of the solution. The desired state can be controlled as follows: spread a certain amount of solution on some surface, put a cross on it with a trowel. Then take the marked area on the trowel and watch the cross: it should not “float”.

If desired, you can get a black solution: add soot to it. It is sold in bags in hardware stores. Add a small amount of soot and get decorative seams without painting.

Any brick is used for poles, just pay attention to the number of defrosting-freezing cycles (the more, the better) and to the geometry. Ideally, deviations in size should not be more than a couple of millimeters. Then it will be easy for you to work. If the batch is of different sizes, carefully sort by size so that the bricks in one column have a minimum discrepancy.

Masonry fence posts: technology

In most cases, fence posts are made of 1.5 or 2 bricks, section 380 * 380 mm and 510 * 510 mm, respectively, height - up to 3 meters.

The masonry is carried out with dressing (displacement) - the seam of the bottom row is blocked by the "body" of the brick lying on top. The seam is standard - 8-10 mm. The scheme of laying columns in one and a half and two bricks in the photo below.

Pillar laying: work order

Cut-off waterproofing is spread on the finished foundation. It can be roofing material in two layers, but waterproofing on bituminous mastic is better. This layer is necessary so that the brick does not "pull" moisture from the ground. If wet brick freezes, it quickly begins to crack and crumble. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. Rolled waterproofing can be replaced - coat the foundation twice with bituminous mastic, and in areas with high humidity it is better to make double waterproofing - coat with mastic, and then lay Hydroisol as well.

According to the size of the column, a solution is applied to the waterproofing with a layer of a little more than 1 cm. Bricks are laid on it, according to the scheme. They are aligned in the vertical and horizontal planes by tapping with a special rubber hammer. Craftsmen can use the handle of the trowel, but, in this case, the remains of the mortar can fly off the plane of the trowel, dirtying their hands and brick, and it is poorly rubbed off the cement.

Ceramic brick absorbs moisture very quickly, so if you hesitate a little, it will be difficult for you to “put” it in place. In order for the mortar to retain plasticity longer, the brick is dipped in water for a few seconds before laying. The same maneuver makes it easier to wipe the solution from the surface (it is removed immediately with a dry cloth).

The second row is also laid: a mortar is spread on the bricks, bricks are placed on it, but already with dressing - unfolded so that the seam is blocked. Align again. Then they take a tape measure and check the dimensions of the stacked rows. Even a small displacement of 1-2 mm is eliminated. They tap on the end of the brick (called a “poke”), moving the bricks closer. Then, if the side faces were not smeared, the vertical seams are filled. All subsequent rows are placed in the same way.

If there is a void between the inner reinforcement pipe and the brickwork, it is filled. If the distance is small, you can use a masonry mortar, if the void is significant, to save space, you can fill it with rubble, tamp, then spill it with a liquid cement-sand mortar.

Masonry under the bar

The masonry of the pillars described above has long been tested, but for beginners, when making it on their own, it is difficult to maintain an even seam. Another problem is that the solution crawls out of the seam, staining the surface. It doesn't turn out very pretty. To facilitate the work, they came up with a masonry under the bar. They take a square metal bar with a side of 8-10 mm, cut it into pieces, 10-15 cm longer than the dimensions of the column.

Having laid the first row, a bar is laid out on it along the edge of the brick. The site is filled with a solution with a small margin, and the layer is made larger closer to the pipe. Then, leading the trowel along the bar, remove the excess, cleaning the bar from the solution. But at the same time, the slope of the solution is preserved. They put a brick, align it in level. At the same time, the bar does not allow it to settle much, and the position of the other end is controlled by the level.

Then they take a short piece of the bar about 10 cm (for a vertical seam), put it along the poke, apply the mortar on the side of the laid brick with a trowel, also removing the excess along the bar. The second brick is put and leveled. After the level is set, the seam is pressed from above with a trowel, and the vertical bar is removed.

So all the bricks in a row are laid out. Then the bars are removed, proceed to the next row. This technology of laying brick pillars allows you to control the seams and make them neat. So even a novice amateur bricklayer can fold a pole with his own hands. It is important only in the process to control the parameters of each row (so that the column in the section is of the same size).

Video lessons

A more complex version of a brick pillar - screwed

Features of working with ceramic bricks

Possible problems and solutions

The main problems that can arise when laying poles with your own hands are resizing and “twisting”. Both defects arise from insufficient control.

When laying pillars with your own hands, often the upper rows become much wider than the lower ones. This happens gradually, a millimeter or even less is added, but in almost every row. As a result, at a height of 2 m, the column width is 400 mm and even more. This is instead of 380 mm instead. The fix for this bug is to control the size of each row.

It is not enough to control the dimensions of the column only with the building level. A household tool (yellow) is mainly used, and it has a rather large error. And if the level has a length of 60-80 cm, you simply will not see slight vertical deviations. Therefore, they additionally use a tape measure - measuring each row. To reduce the time it takes to control, you can make a template according to the size of the post (for example, from even strips) with which to check for deviations.

Fence posts are laid around a metal reinforcing pipe, verticality is checked after laying each row

Self-laying pillars without experience in such work can lead to another mistake: the edges of the pillar can move, while the pillar twists around its axis. This shortcoming is much more unpleasant: try attaching spans to such pillars. There will be many problems. Therefore, when laying each row, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the corners are located strictly one above the other.

To facilitate the task, you can use two corners screwed to opposite corners. They are temporarily attached to the lower rows (with bolts or self-tapping screws in the seam) and then used as a guideline, placing the bricks strictly in the corner.

Embedded elements and fastening of the gate

When laying brick pillars, you need to think about how you will attach the span to them. In order to be able to fix the horizontal guides for filling the fence, mortgages are pre-welded to the pipes located in the middle of the column. These can be corners, studs, "ears" for attaching wooden planks, etc. They are welded at the same height so that the attached crossbars are strictly horizontal.

One of the options is suitable for fastening corrugated board, picket fence

Mortgage options may vary. Someone makes from a corner, someone has enough hairpins. It all depends on the type of filling the fence (from which spans will be made) or mass.

Under gates or gates, at least three metal parts with a metal thickness of at least 3 mm (preferably 4 mm or even more) are required.

We make a cap on a brick pillar

To protect the brick from moisture, the top of the pillar is covered with a cap. They are sold in large quantities, there are metal, concrete or composite. If desired, a cap on a roofing iron pole can be made with your own hands. Below is a diagram. You just have to substitute the dimensions, and then bend along the marked lines. The product is fastened with special rivets, but self-tapping screws can also be used. Only it will be necessary to pre-drill the holes, coat them with anti-rust, then paint.

Photo ideas of fences with brick pillars

The most popular option is a corrugated fence with brick pillars.

Ragged stone and picket fence - combined fence

You can make a reliable and relatively inexpensive fence for the site using a combined fence - the pillars are made of brick, and the filling (spans) and any light material - wood, profiled sheet, forged fences. The view turns out to be solid, and the costs are much less than for a “pure” brick fence. Moreover, laying pillars is not the most difficult thing, but profitable. Masters two years ago asked from 2,000 rubles per pole, and today prices have more than doubled. You can fold brick columns for a fence with your own hands without the skills of a bricklayer. It is important to follow the technology and everything will work out.

The choice of the type of foundation for brick pillars depends on what material the filling will be from and also on the type of soil. If the span of the fence will be made of light material (corrugated board, wood), you can make a pile foundation for each pillar. The depth to which the pile must be driven / twisted depends on the type of soil and the height of the groundwater. If soils are prone to winter heaving (clay or loam) with high groundwater, it is necessary to dig in 15-20 cm below the freezing depth of the soil. On well-drained soils (sands and sandy loams), it is enough to dig in 80 cm.

Pile foundation for a brick post for a fence with light filling

A pile foundation for a brick pillar is made according to standard technology:

• drill a hole of the required depth (diameter 25-35 cm);
• a bucket or two gravel is poured to the bottom;
• compact;
• they put a pipe around which they will later lay the pillar (on heaving soils, several pieces of metal bars, tapes, corners are often welded to the buried part for greater stability);
• the pipe is set strictly vertically, fixed;
• for heaving soils, if metal pieces are not welded to the pipe, you can stick several reinforcing bars into the hole; for very difficult soils, you can tie a frame;
• high-grade concrete is poured - M300 or higher (read about grades and composition here).

The length of the pipes consists of two quantities: from the part that is walled up in concrete and the part that will stick out from above. Moreover, the upper section of the pipe is not at all necessary in this case should be up to the very top of the column. It can be 40-50 cm shorter. An exception is the poles on which the gate and / or gate will be hung. Here the internal reinforcement should be almost to the very top.

If the fence is planned to be completely brick or there are large wind loads in the region, most likely you will need to make a full-fledged strip foundation. Another option is piles connected with a shallow tape.

Fence construction with brick pillars on a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation

Read more about the types of foundations for various types of fences in the article "Foundation for a fence: how not to bury extra money".

Mortar and brick for posts

The mortar is made cement-sand with a ratio of 1:5 (or 1:6). Sand is better to take a fine fraction, high-grade cement - not lower than M400. For plasticity, you can add a little liquid hand soap or dish detergent (20-30 gr. For a standard batch - 1 bucket).

It is important when preparing the solution to obtain the desired fluidity. It should not be dry, but it is also inconvenient to work with liquid, because water is added gradually, monitoring the consistency of the solution. The desired state can be controlled as follows: spread a certain amount of solution on some surface, put a cross on it with a trowel. Then take the marked area on the trowel and watch the cross: it should not “float”.

The optimal consistency of the mortar for laying brick pillars

If desired, you can get a black solution: add soot to it. It is sold in bags in hardware stores. Add a small amount of soot and get decorative seams without painting.

Black mortar adds decorative effect

Any brick is used for poles, just pay attention to the number of defrosting-freezing cycles (the more, the better) and to the geometry. Ideally, deviations in size should not be more than a couple of millimeters. Then it will be easy for you to work. If the batch is of different sizes, carefully sort by size so that the bricks in one column have a minimum discrepancy.

Masonry fence posts: technology

In most cases, fence posts are made of 1.5 or 2 bricks, section 380 * 380 mm and 510 * 510 mm, respectively, height - up to 3 meters.

The masonry is carried out with dressing (displacement) - the seam of the bottom row is blocked by the "body" of the brick lying on top. The seam is standard - 8-10 mm. The scheme of laying columns in one and a half and two bricks in the photo below.

Brick pillars in 1.5 and 2 bricks

Pillar laying: work order

Cut-off waterproofing is spread on the finished foundation. It can be roofing material in two layers, but waterproofing on bituminous mastic is better. This layer is necessary so that the brick does not "pull" moisture from the ground. If wet brick freezes, it quickly begins to crack and crumble. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. Rolled waterproofing can be replaced - coat the foundation twice with bituminous mastic, and in areas with high humidity it is better to make double waterproofing - coat with mastic, and then lay Hydroizol as well.

According to the size of the column, a solution is applied to the waterproofing with a layer of a little more than 1 cm. Bricks are laid on it, according to the scheme. They are aligned in the vertical and horizontal planes by tapping with a special rubber hammer. Craftsmen can use the handle of the trowel, but, in this case, the remains of the mortar can fly off the plane of the trowel, dirtying their hands and brick, and it is poorly rubbed off the cement.

Ceramic brick absorbs moisture very quickly, so if you hesitate a little, it will be difficult for you to “put” it in place. In order for the mortar to retain plasticity longer, the brick is dipped in water for a few seconds before laying. The same maneuver makes it easier to wipe the solution from the surface (it is removed immediately with a dry cloth).

We knock with a hammer

The second row is also laid: a mortar is spread on the bricks, bricks are placed on it, but already with dressing - unfolded so that the seam is blocked. Align again. Then they take a tape measure and check the dimensions of the stacked rows. Even a small displacement of 1-2 mm is eliminated. They tap on the end of the brick (called a “poke”), moving the bricks closer. Then, if the side faces were not smeared, the vertical seams are filled. All subsequent rows are placed in the same way.

If there is a void between the inner reinforcement pipe and the brickwork, it is filled. If the distance is small, you can use a masonry mortar, if the void is significant, to save space, you can fill it with rubble, tamp, then spill it with a liquid cement-sand mortar.

Masonry under the bar

The masonry of the pillars described above has long been tested, but for beginners, when making it on their own, it is difficult to maintain an even seam. Another problem is that the solution crawls out of the seam, staining the surface. It doesn't turn out very pretty. To facilitate the work, they came up with a masonry under the bar. They take a square metal bar with a side of 8-10 mm, cut it into pieces, 10-15 cm longer than the dimensions of the column.

Bar layout

Having laid the first row, a bar is laid out on it along the edge of the brick. The site is filled with a solution with a small margin, and the layer is made larger closer to the pipe. Then, leading the trowel along the bar, remove the excess, cleaning the bar from the solution. But at the same time, the slope of the solution is preserved. They put a brick, align it in level. At the same time, the bar does not allow it to settle much, and the position of the other end is controlled by the level.

Under the bar we apply the solution on the side face

Then they take a short piece of the bar about 10 cm (for a vertical seam), put it along the poke, apply the mortar on the side of the laid brick with a trowel, also removing the excess along the bar. The second brick is put and leveled. After the level is set, the seam is pressed from above with a trowel, and the vertical bar is removed.

We take out the bar, holding the seam with a trowel

So all the bricks in a row are laid out. Then the bars are removed, proceed to the next row. This technology of laying brick pillars allows you to control the seams and make them neat. So even a novice amateur bricklayer can fold a pole with his own hands. It is important only in the process to control the parameters of each row (so that the column in the section is of the same size).

Video lessons

A more complex version of a brick pillar - screwed

Features of working with ceramic bricks

Possible problems and solutions

The main problems that can arise when laying poles with your own hands are resizing and "twisting". Both defects arise from insufficient control.

When laying pillars with your own hands, often the upper rows become much wider than the lower ones. This happens gradually, a millimeter or even less is added, but in almost every row. As a result, at a height of 2 m, the column width is 400 mm and even more. This is instead of 380 mm instead. The fix for this bug is to control the size of each row.

It is not enough to control the dimensions of the column only with the building level. A household tool (yellow) is mainly used, and it has a rather large error. And if the level has a length of 60-80 cm, you simply will not see slight vertical deviations. Therefore, they additionally use a tape measure - measuring each row. To reduce the time it takes to control, you can make a template according to the size of the post (for example, from even strips) with which to check for deviations.

Fence posts are laid around a metal reinforcing pipe, verticality is checked after laying each row

Self-laying pillars without experience in such work can lead to another mistake: the edges of the pillar can move, while the pillar twists around its axis. This shortcoming is much more unpleasant: try attaching spans to such pillars. There will be many problems. Therefore, when laying each row, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the corners are located strictly one above the other.

To facilitate the task, you can use two corners screwed to opposite corners. They are temporarily attached to the lower rows (with bolts or self-tapping screws in the seam) and then used as a guideline, placing the bricks strictly in the corner.

Embedded elements and fastening of the gate

When laying brick pillars, you need to think about how you will attach the span to them. In order to be able to fix the horizontal guides for filling the fence, mortgages are pre-welded to the pipes located in the middle of the column. These can be corners, studs, "ears" for attaching wooden planks, etc. They are welded at the same height so that the attached crossbars are strictly horizontal.

One of the options is suitable for fastening corrugated board, picket fence

Mortgage options may vary. Someone makes from a corner, someone has enough hairpins. It all depends on the type of filling of the fence (from which the spans will be made) or the mass of the gate leaf.

Mortgage options in brick pillars

For different weights, elements of different power are needed

Under gates or gates, at least three metal parts with a metal thickness of at least 3 mm (preferably 4 mm or even more) are required.

An example of the location of mortgages for swing gates

The device and installation of sliding gates with your own hands are described here. Learn how to automate swing gates here.

We make a cap on a brick pillar

To protect the brick from moisture, the top of the pillar is covered with a cap. They are sold in large quantities, there are metal, concrete or composite. If desired, a cap on a roofing iron pole can be made with your own hands. Below is a diagram. You just have to substitute the dimensions, and then bend to the bending machine along the marked lines. The product is fastened with special rivets, but self-tapping screws can also be used. Only it will be necessary to pre-drill the holes, coat them with anti-rust, then paint.

Drawing of a cap on a brick pillar

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Mankind has been using such a building material as brick for a long time, perhaps exactly as long as he can remember. Brick is called a universal and unified stone, artificially produced for use in construction. You can build anything you want out of bricks.

Brick is the most versatile and sought-after building material.

The popularity of brick does not weaken - to this day it is one of the most sought-after materials for construction.

Brick posts are very often used as a support for a gate or fence.

Surely it is impossible to find such a summer resident who would not use bricks when constructing buildings on his site, when improving the house. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of bricklaying. Pillars and piers made of bricks can be elements of building frames inside or outside. In this case, their role is to serve as a support for the elements located above them. Since the load falling on them is quite large, the requirements for them are also increased. For example, laying on a multi-row system is prohibited for execution - in this case, it is impossible to ensure the solidity of the elements and the required strength. For the same reason, "waste" masonry will not work either.

Masonry "waste" is unsuitable for a multi-row system.

Most often, an element such as a brick column is used as a support for a fence, gate posts, gates, as part of a fence. In this case, the material of the fence itself can be anything. These can be pillars made of silicate bricks, as well as from any others - at the request of the owner. Laying brick columns must certainly be a bricklayer who has experience in such work. Pillars made of brick, simple or facing, are laid out in a rectangular or square shape.

Mortar for masonry

Method for preparing a mortar for brickwork: a dry mixture of cement and sand is closed with water.

For laying out brick pillars, a simple sand-cement mortar is used - the ratio of cement and sand is 1: 4-6. Its main purpose is to prevent the displacement of one brick relative to another. When laying, he will experience a load of displacement, compression, but not rupture. For this reason, an overly thick solution should not be made. For greater plasticity, sometimes a part of clay or lime is added to it. Thanks to this additive, the fluidity of the solution increases. We put the mixture carefully, trying not to put too much. Lime can be replaced with liquid soap or washing powder, but such a composition should not be used if a hollow brick is chosen for masonry - too much mortar flows into the cracks of the brick, due to which the thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly.

It does not make sense to make a lot of the solution, as it will be consumed in small portions.

Mortar for brickwork is prepared, as a rule, in this way: a dry mixture is made from cement and sand, which is closed with water. The solution will be consumed in small portions, so it makes no sense to immediately prepare it in a larger volume than 20-50 liters. Experienced builders do this: they take a small amount of dry mix and knead it with water, and after spending it, they prepare the next batch. But with a large upcoming volume of masonry, which is also performed by several people, a concrete mixer can also be used to prepare the mortar.

Main tools:

• trowel - with its help, a solution will be applied or its excess, which was squeezed out when fitting the brick, is selected. At the same time, the laid brick itself is adjusted by the back of the handle;
• kirochka - a hammer with a sharpened striker. It is used to chip or hew a brick;
• grinder - it has recently begun to be used more and more often. Using a stone disc, you can cut or cut a brick much more accurately;
• plumb;
• building level;
• cords and other auxiliary tools, if necessary.

Problems that arise when laying

The main problems with bricklaying are laying bricks at the same level and in a straight line and removing vertical right angles.

Basically, novice masons have the following problems when laying posts: laying bricks at the same level and in a straight line, as well as drawing vertical right angles. When laying bricks, the main thing is the correct laying of the first row. In order to get a straight row, laying is done using a long rule, a stretched cord or a flat rail. At the same time, the brick should not reach 2-3 mm to the guide, so that the mortar cannot press on it. To ensure that the laying is horizontal, each of the bricks must be checked with a level. Bricks are also checked in pairs with neighboring ones. If the masonry is front, this will be especially important for her.

Preliminary work with the foundation

Pits for the foundation for brick pillars should be 1 m deep and with sufficient width.

Brick columns should not be erected without a foundation. Their weight is quite significant, and the soil will not be able to withstand it for a long time - it will certainly begin to wash out, settle, the support will quickly collapse. But a properly prepared foundation will help the pillars stand quietly for more than a decade. To begin with, dig holes 1 m deep and with sufficient width. The lower part of the foundation should be made wider than the upper one - this will help the structure become more stable. Particular attention should be paid to the pillars near the openings - it is there that the heaviest loads are. A layer of rubble or stones is poured at the bottom of the pit, a metal pipe is installed, aligned vertically and poured with concrete. The foundation is left to stand - it will take at least a week, and preferably a month. If the foundation has not stood enough, it may crack during masonry, which will subsequently lead to premature destruction of the structure.

Laying brick posts

Brick pillars are a column, freestanding or standing on a base such as a strip foundation.

A brick column is a column that stands alone or stands on a base such as a strip foundation. Finishing material, that is, lining, anything can be chosen: from natural or artificial stone to tiles. But in most cases, the posts are simply constructed from facing bricks, choosing the most appropriate texture and color scheme for the design of the fence. A brick column is laid out around the supporting base. Usually it is a steel pipe with a square or rectangular section or a channel. Metal structures are treated with an anti-corrosion protective agent and painted with enamel. Bricks should be laid around this base, checking the correctness of the masonry using a level and plumb line.

Brickwork for posts is usually one and a half bricks thick. The material, as a rule, is chosen hollow, made as a facing or, as it is also called, facial. Such columns have an excellent presentable appearance, do not need plastering and are quite practical for operation. The solution with which the columns of the facing material are laid should only be of a high grade of strength.

There are quite a few types of brickwork. Together with the method of jointing, you can get different textures in order to emphasize the grandeur and splendor of structures with these elements and turn brick columns into a wonderful architectural creation.

For the construction of fences, poles should be placed at intervals of no more than 3 meters. If necessary, structural elements are attached to the pillars - for this, metal T-shaped parts must be laid in the masonry of the pillars at a calculated distance. But the most reliable and correct way to attach the log to the posts is considered to be welding the log through a certain number of rows of brickwork. Where the logs should go inside the posts, the brick is cut with a diamond blade. The first mortgage is embedded at a height of 15 cm from the level of the base. Next, the brick is laid to the desired height, after which the middle of the side to which the fence will be attached is determined. In this place, a pencil mark must be made on the brick and a groove must be cut with a grinder for the entire width of the brick. The brick is sawn in width only by a third. After that, a mortgage plate is inserted into the groove in such a way that only a small part protrudes outward, and in the internal cavity of the column the plate would reach the pipe.

The next row - one of the bricks is sawn in the same way and covers the mortgage. The second is done exactly in the middle of the pillar, the top one is placed 15 cm lower than the top row of bricks. Sawing must be done carefully, in exact accordance with the dimensions, so that the mortgages can fit into the grooves as tightly as possible.

When squeezing out the excess solution, it must be immediately removed with a trowel before it has time to dry. The upper part of the masonry is covered with a special cap - to protect the concrete from washing out. Now the brick column is almost ready. The last thing to do is to process the masonry seams.

A few tips for masonry:

A three-row bricklaying system is used for piers with a width of up to 1 meter.

1. Each brick laid in place is certainly checked vertically and horizontally - this is done using a level and a plumb line. The reinforcing mesh should cover all the bricks, but should not go beyond the masonry.
2. If the walls are adjacent to the pillars, they must be connected with the help of a shtraba released from the pillar or steel rods laid inside. - masonry is carried out in half a brick because it does not carry any load other than its own weight. The only requirement that is presented to her is external attractiveness.
3. Walls with a width of up to 1 meter should be laid out according to a three-row binding system, and with a width of more than 4 bricks, they can be laid out according to a multi-row system. With a three-row system, in order for quarters to form in the piers, quarters must be laid in the first of the butt rows, and halves in the spoon rows.

Bricklaying

Jointing is needed so that the masonry seams look smoother, and the columns themselves are neater.

The posts should look attractive and neat, and for this it is necessary that the masonry joints look as even as possible. The stitching helps a lot for this. Before starting work, with a wire brush or a simple broom, sweep away the dried-up remains of the solution, rinse with water, after which you can start the jointing. The solution is kneaded like this, one part lime and cement per ten parts sand. After mixing, the solution should be used as soon as possible, literally within a couple of hours, until it hardens. Before applying the jointing mortar, the surface of the posts should be thoroughly wetted. The most common seam processing methods:

• wasteland;
• under plaster;
• processing of seams on a par with masonry;
• stitching processing.

The first way - the mortar does not completely fill the space between the bricks; 1-1.5 cm remains on the front side. However, it is used much less frequently than others - this type of finish, such as plastering, is rarely used for poles. Basically, the cladding is carried out with the help of decorative finishing stone, tiles and other similar materials.

The second way - the solution is applied flush with the masonry, and in case of excess, they must be cut with a trowel. The surface is thus smooth, and the appearance is neat. For the third method, you will need a special tool, that is, stitching. The sharp edge of this tool cuts off excess mortar, and the concave or convex end helps to give the seams a relief shape. Thanks to this jointing, not only the decorative properties of the masonry increase, but the seams are also more compacted. The mortar should not just be applied, but rubbed into the seams with some effort - this way it better connects with the mortar in the masonry.

First you need to process the vertical seams, then those that are horizontal. The pillars after such a procedure as jointing should stand for at least three weeks, and only after that you can start installing the fence. If it is decided to carry out such work as laying columns on your own, and you have little experience, you should not despair. Careful attention to all stages of the process will help here the most. It is better to start laying poles from the farthest. If the first one does not work out very well, gradually the masonry will look more and more accurate.

As you know, the work of a bricklayer, to put it mildly, is not the easiest. There are many subtleties and a huge number of techniques for obtaining high-quality masonry. Let's figure out how many rows of bricks can be laid per day, without compromising the quality of the future wall.

Depending on the mobility of the solution and the ambient temperature, experienced masons do not recommend laying more than 4 rows per day (12 hours). This is due to the fact that each subsequent row will put pressure on the mortar that has not set, reducing the masonry joint, squeezing the mortar out of it. However, please note that this applies to the usual brick format (1nf), when using one and a half bricks, it is allowed to make no more than 3 rows of masonry, and when using double bricks (2.1nf), no more than 2 rows are allowed per working day.

It should also be understood that when the ambient temperature decreases, the setting time of the mortar increases, and therefore, at an average daily temperature of less than 8-10 degrees, it is preferable to halve the volume of masonry.

For centuries, brick pillars have served as a supporting structure in buildings or as supports in the manufacture of fences and fences. Depending on the purpose of the pillars, the requirements for materials, technologies and methods for laying brick pillars vary significantly.

The choice of material for laying pillars

The material for laying brick pillars can be both clay bricks of any variety (solid or slotted), and silicate. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the post, the required bearing capacity of it and, of course, the personal ideas about the beauty of the customer. However, do not forget about the practical side of the issue. Smooth in such designs has proven itself not in the best way. It can begin to crumble, losing particles of the outer word, in just a few years. The reasons for this may be different: initially low-quality material; the negligence of the owners who do not cover the poles with reliable caps. Textured is more resistant to external influences. There is also a compromise option - a combination of two types of bricks.

Mortar for laying brick pillars

The mortar for masonry of pillars is used ordinary cement-sand, with a proportion in the composition of cement with sand 1: 4-6, to facilitate the production of work, its plasticity should be medium. The technique for producing the mortar is simple: sand and cement are mixed in the right proportion in a dry state, and then closed with water. For greater plasticity, you can add some clay or lime.

The mixture is prepared in small portions as it is consumed, depending on the number of people making the masonry.

Required Tools

For the production of work you will need the following tools:

• Trowel (trowel) for applying the solution;
• Plumb;
• Building level;
• Lace;
• Construction hammer-kirochka to give the brick the desired size. For a more accurate fit of the dimensions of the masonry elements, a grinder is increasingly being used;
• Concrete mixer, if necessary, knead a large volume of mortar.

How to mount mortgages

To fasten the horizontal logs to the pillars in the masonry, metal mortgages are installed. The first mortgage is located 20 cm from the foundation, approximately on the second, third row of masonry. For fences up to two meters high, a couple of mortgages on a pole are enough. The top mortgage is installed 20 cm below the top of the column. For poles with a height of more than 2 meters, it is recommended to provide for the installation of a third mortgage in the middle of the pole.

To prepare a gap for a mortgage, a brick laid flat is sawn from above with a grinder in width to a depth corresponding to half the width of the mortgage. The brick is laid in a row with the sawn side up, a mortgage is placed in the hole, then another brick, and it is laid with the sawn side on the mortgage.

Beginners when laying poles often face the problem of achieving straightness in the horizontal and vertical planes. It is necessary to remember the main thing - the observance of the correct angles of the entire structure depends on the evenness of the first row of bricks. The horizontal laying of each row is controlled using a bubble level, the vertical - with a plumb line. The straightness of the arrangement of a number of pillars in the plan is achieved by pulling the laces or using a long rule.

The first row of bricks is laid on a waterproofing material, regardless of whether the laying is done on a foundation or on a natural base. When laying, the method of chain dressing of seams is used, when in each subsequent row the brick is displaced relative to the underlying one by half its length, this gives the structure the necessary rigidity. To give additional strength and stability to the structure, it is possible to use wire mesh reinforcement every 5-7 rows of masonry. The seams between the bricks to seal the mortar and give the masonry an aesthetic appearance are embroidered with the help of jointing.

How much does it cost to lay brick pillars

Pole laying rates are important information for estimating the budget required to install a fence. We will not be able to provide you with an exact calculation of the cost for the Nizhny Novgorod region, since there are several masonry options, different heights and sizes of pillars, seasonality and the skill of the brigade also affect pricing. Estimated cost is a more realistic approach to estimating a project.

For reference, we will analyze a fence with brick pillars 2 meters high and a section of 38x38 cm. The total cost of one pillar, taking into account the necessary materials (brick, mortar, pipe, metal cap), will be from 8,500 to 10,000 rubles. The work itself can be estimated in the amount of 4,500 to 7,000 rubles. In terms of 1 linear meter, such a fence (with sections filled with a profiled sheet, the distance between the posts is 3 meters) costs from 7,000 rubles on a turnkey basis. The specified amount includes the installation of gates and gates.